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Areas in High Eagle

Aerie Dome 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Baby Blues Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Dark Side 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Low Rider 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Main Wall 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Main Wall - Lower Left 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Shape Shifter Area 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Talon 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 37.374, -119.428 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 18,265 total, 349/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Aug 26, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

High Eagle is one of the premier crags located near Friend Rock Camp. Most climbs are sport routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range with a few mixed routes thrown in. Routes here tend to be quite long and require use of midway anchors to descend.

This whole area gets morning sun and the right side (Shape-Shifter, etc) gets shade earlier in the day.

Getting There

The hike is mostly down hill takes about 15 minutes. Park at the pull-out for Friend Rock Camp just below the gate which leads to the shuteye ridge lookout. This is on road 6S059. 4WD is required to get here, see map for details. Otherwise park at the 2WD pullout and hike an extra 10 minutes up the road to Friend Rock Camp.

From the camp locate the talon and look for a tree with a gap sawed in it that marks the start of the trail. There are also cairns here. Follow the obvious trail towards the very large dome on your right. Once you reach rock gulley head up hill, staying close to the wall and contour around the base. You will hit the Shape-shifter area first. Continue along the base until you must make a step around move to access the Main Wall.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at High Eagle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eine Kleine Nachtmusik
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Not Afraid
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eagle Ease
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out of the Nest
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweaty Betty
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
We Free Again Boys
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to the Dark Side
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raptor
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Kala
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Elixir
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Darth Vader
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Va Va Voom
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gravity Pool
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bio Luminescent
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Illuminati
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Eine Kleine Nachtmusik Main Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Not Afraid Main Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Eagle Ease Talon 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Out of the Nest Talon 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sweaty Betty Main Wall - Lower Left 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
We Free Again Boys Dark Side 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Welcome to the Dark Side Dark Side 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Raptor Talon 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Little Kala Main Wall - Lower Left 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Elixir Main Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Darth Vader Dark Side 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Va Va Voom Main Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Gravity Pool Shape Shifter Area 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bio Luminescent Main Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Illuminati Main Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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C Brooks
Fresno, CA
C Brooks   Fresno, CA
You will need full on 4x4 truck or Jeep to make it up. Jun 22, 2017
Has anyone been up there this year? Just wondering whether the road is drivable yet ... Jun 21, 2017

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