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Routes in Main Wall

Bio Luminescent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eine Kleine Nachtmusik T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elixir S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Illuminati S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Not Afraid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Show Goes On, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Va Va Voom S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 230 ft
FA: Brent Webster
Page Views: 1,135 total, 22/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 3, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

70m, 29 bolts, this is a LOONG route. This route breaks up into three sections with midway anchors. Start up the arete with some hard moves off the ground before you can pull over on the slab. Enjoy straight forward climbing until the angle starts to steepens below a set of crack features. Slap up the seams, rails and cracks until you can get established on good holds. Pull up to the first anchor on good jugs. This section is mostly 5.10+ with a distinct 5.11a/b crux. Traverse left from the belay and up on a series of cracks sidepulls and small holds. Following the obvious holds take you off to the left of the bolt line and towards Bio Luinescent. This second section to the Elixir anchor seems to be around 11d. If you stick more to the bolt line it will be closer to 12a.

Get a good rest at the Elixir anchor and head off for the crux of Illuminati. Start right from the anchor and then drift back left on amazing patina crimps and shallow seams. Fight the rope drag through a hard boulder problem on small holds, 12b, and pull up to good holds. Enjoy a final romp up easy 5.11 to a anchor way high up the wall. Either rappel here or climb another 5 feet to a higher anchor where you could belay up a second climber.

Location

This is on the right side of the Main Wall. The route starts on a small arete. A stick clip is nice for the first bolt.

Protection

30 bolts. Make sure to bring at least 8 alpine draws and one double length sling for the Elixir anchor. All anchors are setup for rappel with a 60m rope. With a 70m rope you can skip the Elixir anchor.

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
Such amazing stone....so good. Nov 16, 2015