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Routes in Dark Side

Bushido Bandit S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Darth Vader T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unnamed 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
We Free Again Boys S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to the Dark Side S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 115 ft
FA: Grahm Doe
Page Views: 828 total · 16/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 5, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Poor holds right off the ground lead to steep moves on good holds past the first bolt. (Stick clip useful). Romp up to the 3rd bolt and get a good rest. The fixed nut is pretty good and can be backed up with a .5 camalot or 1-1.5" piece. Fight up the overhanging layback to a stance and a bolt. Work left on good holds to a nice rest. Quest up the face past a mix of bolts and gear until you make it to a roof way up high. Pull another solid 5.11/11+ crux past closely spaced bolts. Some more easy climbing, and a few tricky hero moves lead to an anchor at 35 meters. Watch the end of your rope if you lower off!

Location

This route is under a nice roof and the lefmost of a trio of bolt lines (Welcome to Darkside, We Free Boys). Look for a low roof and then a fin of rock on the right of a second roof about 20 feet up.

Protection

13 Bolts plus a single set of cams to 2.5". Bolted anchor with Chains. Makes sure you have a 70m rope. Otherwise rappel to the right to the midway anchor on Welcome to the Darkside.

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