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Routes in Main Wall

Bio Luminescent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eine Kleine Nachtmusik T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elixir S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Illuminati S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Not Afraid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Show Goes On, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Va Va Voom S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Matthews, Greg Vernon Oct. 1988
Page Views: 397 total · 11/month
Shared By: snowhazed on Sep 7, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Just to the left of Elixir, and there is an obvious left arching dihedral crack. When the crack gets furry step left and finish slabs past bolts and two anchors to the third anchor. 2 raps to the ground from here.

P2 is 60 feet of 5.7 crack and face- beware the stacked death on the right of the top of the corner. Finish on a wild sea of knobs to a 3 buttonhead anchor and a knob backup.

These pitches can be linked with a 70M and judicious gear placement (or lack thereof). Maybe a touch of simul. If you come to this anchor then you need to continue up a short 10a bolted pitch to get to an anchor setup for rappel.

Location

See description above

Protection

Doubles to 3", one 4", offsets useful. Runners useful. 5 draws for slab variation. Some suspect rock.

Photos

Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
 
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
 
Didn't use any offsets, but rest of gear beta is good. long runners down low and where the #4 goes. Jun 29, 2018

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