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Routes in Shape Shifter Area

Gravity Pool S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 165 ft
FA: Mike M. 2009
Page Views: 1,159 total, 22/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Aug 26, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs out two roofs on the far left side of the Shape Shifter area. Start up an arete with technical moves past two bolts. Clip high and pull the overhang and continue up a cryptic dihedral. Bust another crux past a fixed draw to pull a second roof. The first anchor is right above the roof at ~20m. If continuing to the second anchor it is smart to extend some of the draws on the first section. Continue up an easy section until the face thins to a five foot double arete. Work up using both sides with trickery and small holds. Quite a long route!

It's 12b to the first anchor. The section to the second anchor is in the 11b/c range.

Location

At the far left of the Shape Shifter area. To the right of Va Va Voom. Start on some broken rock on an arete under a huge roof. If doing the upper section you will need to rappel.

Protection

7 bolts and a fixed draw on the first pitch. 12 more bolts on the second pitch. The anchor at 20m has mussy hooks. There are chains at the top anchor.

Photos

James Barnett 2
Portland, OR
  5.12a/b
James Barnett 2   Portland, OR
  5.12a/b
Be prepared for the rope to get snagged on the lip of the second roof as you pull up onto the slab just before the first anchor. Super fun route. Sep 19, 2014
Warning: Be extremely careful climbing to the second anchor with a 60m rope! Or better yet: Don't do it--use a 70m instead.

I did it with a 60m and it sucked. The ends of my rope were 5 or 10 feet short from reaching the lower anchor. Granted I had knots on both ends, but I sure as hell wasn't going to untie them and hope for the best.

This feels like a dangerous situation to me. Would be better if the first anchor was higher or the second one was lower. I hope people are careful :-/ Sep 2, 2014