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Routes in Milky Way Wall

Crossing the Milky Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sons of Thunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supernova T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elevation: 7,100 ft
GPS: 37.326, -119.408 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Riley Daly on Jun 29, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This large, 700 foot southwest-facing wall has some superb multipitch climbs. The routes are mostly lower angle on runnels, cracks and knobby faces.

Getting There

The trail to this wall shares its start with the trail to the Eagle Beaks. After branching off and reaching the MIlky Way Wall, the trail continues up to the Incinerator Area. The trail is well marked (cairns) and cleared, but it can be easy to get off trail if not paying attention. Elevation gain is 700 feet.

From the end of 7S02H a climber's trail heads left through some pine trees. Follow this to an old logging road and a brushy clearing. Follow the "road" only 100 feet until forced up left a bit, and then aim through the clearing, staying as level as possible. Continue through another clearing and you'll see a small house-sized boulder on the right. Cross the creekbed on the left to two huge trees hollowed out at their bases by fire. Head up past the tree (left) and through a grove of pine trees. Stay along the right edge of the grove whilst heading uphill and to some boulders. The trail winds across the back side of a large boulder to cross the creekbed. Now head uphill, drifting right and following the path of least resistance. At the next creekbed head up the creel only 25 feet and then go right past a small boulder. Drift up and right through the steep hillside. A few (steep!) switchbacks will lead right to a small house-sized golden boulder. Pass along its right side and up the sandy hill. Just as the trail nears a bouldery creekbed you'll see a fork. Take the left fork and start heading up towards low-angled 4th class slabs. Follow the right edge of the slab and follow cairns up to the base of the Milky Way Wall. Following the trail will lead you through some high bushes and finally to the left side of the wall. To the right is the Orion Area (routes 5 - 7), to the left is the Supernova Area (routes 1 - 4). To reach the route Edge of the Galaxy and the Invinerator Area, head left past a small pine tree then up through some boulders and tic-tac up the steep slope on cleared trail to the upper zone. This is also the descent trail if topping out the Milky Way Wall.

APPROACH TIME: 50 mins up, 30 mins down.

Morning shade and then afternoon sun.

GPS marker here shows the trailhead.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Milky Way Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
7S02H has become heavily overgrown. Keep walking through the growth as long as you can imagine that there is a fire road underneath. Keep your eye open for a trail on your left and you will quickly come to a tall stump with a cairn on top.
Shortly after trail finding difficulties begin in earnest. Hopefully a bit easier now, see if you can see hints of a trail under the growth. I pulled out what I could by hand, will bring something to prune next time. Once out of the undergrowth, there are still difficulties even though you will start seeing cairns; besides growth there is heavy log fall across the trails I searched out.
The guidebook trail description works well past the logfall.

Once the cairns become consistent, it is easy to miss the large black and orange boulder that warns of the split in the trail coming up. The trail continuing trail to the Eagle Beaks is better marked and easy to incorrectly make trail description for Milky Way Wall fit. Aug 10, 2017

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