Elevation: 7,100 ft
GPS: 37.326, -119.408 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,624 total · 98/month
Shared By: Riley Daly on Jun 29, 2017
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

This large, 700 foot southwest-facing wall has some superb multipitch climbs. The routes are mostly lower angle on runnels, cracks and knobby faces.

Getting There

The trail to this wall shares its start with the trail to the Eagle Beaks. After branching off and reaching the MIlky Way Wall, the trail continues up to the Incinerator Area. The trail is well marked (cairns) and cleared, but it can be easy to get off trail if not paying attention. Elevation gain is 700 feet.

From the end of 7S02H a climber's trail heads left through some pine trees. Follow this to an old logging road and a brushy clearing. Follow the "road" only 100 feet until forced up left a bit, and then aim through the clearing, staying as level as possible. Continue through another clearing and you'll see a small house-sized boulder on the right. Cross the creekbed on the left to two huge trees hollowed out at their bases by fire. Head up past the tree (left) and through a grove of pine trees. Stay along the right edge of the grove whilst heading uphill and to some boulders. The trail winds across the back side of a large boulder to cross the creekbed. Now head uphill, drifting right and following the path of least resistance. At the next creekbed head up the creel only 25 feet and then go right past a small boulder. Drift up and right through the steep hillside. A few (steep!) switchbacks will lead right to a small house-sized golden boulder. Pass along its right side and up the sandy hill. Just as the trail nears a bouldery creekbed you'll see a fork. Take the left fork and start heading up towards low-angled 4th class slabs. Follow the right edge of the slab and follow cairns up to the base of the Milky Way Wall. Following the trail will lead you through some high bushes and finally to the left side of the wall. To the right is the Orion Area (routes 5 - 7), to the left is the Supernova Area (routes 1 - 4). To reach the route Edge of the Galaxy and the Invinerator Area, head left past a small pine tree then up through some boulders and tic-tac up the steep slope on cleared trail to the upper zone. This is also the descent trail if topping out the Milky Way Wall.

APPROACH TIME: 50 mins up, 30 mins down.

Morning shade and then afternoon sun.

GPS marker here shows the trailhead.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Milky Way Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Crossing the Milky Way
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Sons of Thunder
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Halfway to Uranus
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Lightning Cracks
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Supernova
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crossing the Milky Way
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Sons of Thunder
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Halfway to Uranus
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Lightning Cracks
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Supernova
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Milky Way Wall »

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