Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 7,165 ft 2,184 m
GPS: 37.37497, -119.43252
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32,556 total · 411/month
Shared By: Brice Pollock on Jun 15, 2018
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Like most areas at Shuteye, you'll find everything from slab dome climbing on Queen's throne, hard sport off cool features at Dreamscape, intermittent trad, bouldering, etc. here. It is less busy than Big Sleep because it is harder to get to and the approach trails can be less defined than what you are used to in more developed areas, but are the shuteye standard.

Getting There / Camping Suggest change

Using the GPS coordinates (37.374960, -119.432392) for the two-wheel drive (2wd) camp area with Google Maps works pretty good but you will loose signal. Getting here requires a little more clearance than the Big Sleep Area, but still doable in a normal car.

You can get to Bass Lake from either Oakhurst or North Fork, but after that, it is best to take the paved Beasore road. After 10 miles on Beasore, take a right on Central Camp Road. On a sharp curve you'll find a sign marking Shuteye Lookout Road (6S059) with a sign listing distance to Shuteye Lookout. There is a fork on this road after a stream crossing you have to take a left on 2-4 miles in. The right branch deadends so you won't get lost if you take the wrong one.

You know you are at the camping area about 4 miles along on Shuteye Lookout Road because the road becomes very rough and starts gaining a lot of elevation a short while after you see several pull off areas. This is not a big camping area like Big Sleep's slab and more like BLM pull off camping.

Shuteye Lookout Road continues from this parking area all the way to the lookout and areas like Sundail, however after this camping area it is very rough. Even for a 4wd vehicle with good clearance you probably won't make it all the way to the lookout unless you are in a 4x4 / jeeping crew. Big blocks show up halfway between here and the Lookout.

All the climbs leave off trails on the north side of the road. Dreamscape, King's Tower and Queen's Throne just at 2wd camp and Shangri La, Short n Steep, Hobbit and 50 5.7s a little further up and closer to the 4x4 road start.

31 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Queen's Throne Area Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Queen's Throne Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Rainbow Oyster
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Hawk Tower Buttress
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Cosmic Rodeo
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Sunset Shaman
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Dreaming in Color
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 4
Coronet
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Euphoria
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Fish Lips
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Slumber Party
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 38
Shangri La
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Dream Weaver
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 10
Nirvana
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Odyssey
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Golden Serpent
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Kashmir
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rainbow Oyster Dreamscape > Vision Quest
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Hawk Tower Buttress Dreamscape > Hawk Tower
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cosmic Rodeo Dreamscape > Vision Quest
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sunset Shaman Dreamscape > Vision Quest
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Dreaming in Color Dreamscape > Hawk Tower
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Coronet Queen's Throne
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Euphoria Shangri La
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fish Lips Dreamscape > Royal Garden
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Slumber Party Shangri La
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Shangri La Shangri La
 38
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Dream Weaver Dreamscape > Royal Garden
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Nirvana Shangri La
 10
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Odyssey Shangri La
 7
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Golden Serpent Dreamscape > Dreamtime
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Kashmir Shangri La
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Queen's Throne Area »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading