Elevation: 7,165 ft
GPS: 37.375, -119.433 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,625 total · 444/month
Shared By: Brice Pollock on Jun 15, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Like most areas at Shuteye, you'll find everything from slab dome climbing on Queen's throne, hard sport off cool features at Dreamscape, intermittent trad, bouldering, etc. here. It is less busy than Big Sleep because it is harder to get to and the approach trails can be less defined than what you are used to in more developed areas, but are the shuteye standard.

Getting There / Camping

Using the GPS coordinates (37.374960, -119.432392) for the two-wheel drive (2wd) camp area with Google Maps works pretty good but you will loose signal. Getting here requires a little more clearance than the Big Sleep Area, but still doable in a normal car.

You can get to Bass Lake from either Oakhurst or North Fork, but after that, it is best to take the paved Beasore road. After 10 miles on Beasore, take a right on Central Camp Road. On a sharp curve you'll find a sign marking Shuteye Lookout Road (6S059) with a sign listing distance to Shuteye Lookout. There is a fork on this road after a stream crossing you have to take a left on 2-4 miles in. The right branch deadends so you won't get lost if you take the wrong one.

You know you are at the camping area about 4 miles along on Shuteye Lookout Road because the road becomes very rough and starts gaining a lot of elevation a short while after you see several pull off areas. This is not a big camping area like Big Sleep's slab and more like BLM pull off camping.

Shuteye Lookout Road continues from this parking area all the way to the lookout and areas like Sundail, however after this camping area it is very rough. Even for a 4wd vehicle with good clearance you probably won't make it all the way to the lookout unless you are in a 4x4 / jeeping crew. Big blocks show up halfway between here and the Lookout.

All the climbs leave off trails on the north side of the road. Dreamscape, King's Tower and Queen's Throne just at 2wd camp and Shangri La, Short n Steep, Hobbit and 50 5.7s a little further up and closer to the 4x4 road start.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Queen's Throne Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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