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Areas in Missouri

CM: Capen Park 5 / 5 / 21 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
CM: Cedar Creek 1 / 1 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
CM: Providence 15 / 63 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 78
CM: Reform Rock 1 / 4 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
CM: Rocheport 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
CM: Scheuler's Ferry 2 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
CM: The Forgotten Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Chubb Trail Crag 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Devils Elbow 0 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
EM: Amidon 0 / 0 / 0 / 29 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
EM: Blumenhof Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
EM: Elephant Rocks State Park 0 / 0 / 1 / 54 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 54
EM: Johnson Shut-Ins 10 / 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
EM: Mammoth 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
EM: Millstream Gardens 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
EM: Pickle Springs Natural Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
EM: Silver Mines 18 / 0 / 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
EM: St. Francois State Park 6 / 15 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
EM: The Off-Sets 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Hermann Roadside Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
SWM: Mother Natures Crack 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
SWM: Peter's Branch 0 / 0 / 0 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
WM: Cave Hollow 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
WM: Cliff Drive 9 / 19 / 9 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33
WM: Eagle View Bluff 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
WM: Fair Grove 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
WM: Kaysinger 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
WM: Monegaw Springs 2 / 29 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
WM: Raven Rocks 2 / 20 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
WM: Reed's Bluff 1 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
WM: Shadow Rock Park DWS 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
WM: Swope & Blue River Limestone 0 / 5 / 1 / 49 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 55
WM: The Dump 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
WM: The Quarry 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
WM: Trapper's Camp 25 / 48 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 54
WM: Warsaw 13 / 35 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 43
XM: Closed Areas 11 / 44 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 55
ZM: Indoor Walls 0 / 1 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 776 ft
GPS: 38.962, -92.321 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 18, 2006 with updates
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

Description

Missouri offers rock climbers a diversity of geological exposures, ranging from a variety of sedimentary sandstone, conglomerates, and limestone layers to an array of igneous granite and rhyolite outcroppings. While the old, eroded Saint Francois Mountains, located in the southeast part of the state, provide steep inclines for the training mountain climber, crags range from 20 ft sandstone boulders to 200 ft limestone cliffs also enable technical climbers to challenge individual sport specific goals. Throughout the state, the water sculpted landscape reveals rock which can draw the attention of just about any passing rock hound, but it is easy for one to surmise that a majority of the developed climbing is found in the lower half of Missouri, below the I-70 line. This is due to the dramatic environmental conditions of the past that has left us with the wonderful woodlands that we know as the Ozarks today. Due to the St. Francis Mountains piercing the sedimentary layers from below, glaciers pressing down from the north, and uplift of the Ozark plateau, much of our climbing is found along our diverse rivers and lakes. Many of the bluffs face south, making most of them fantastic winter destinations.

Popular Areas Near Columbia



Capen Park

Small crag with about 20 routes and around 55' tall. Most of the routes are top roped due to many of the lines were freed with traditional lead gear or free soloed. There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top. Very easy access for anyone, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs. Routes vary from 5.5 to 5.12.

The Drive-In is another Capen Park crag that was developed as a sport climbing specific area. A handful of bolted lines face north, offering a shady spot for those warmer days. Routes vary from 5.6 to 5.11.

Providence



Providence is a traditional crag consisting of several miles of different limestone exposures. Most sport climbs are 5.9 or harder with just a handful of beginner climbs rated 5.8 or easier. Some climbs can be top-roped with long runners but there are around one hundred bolted lines. The classic Providence Crack and crack climbs needing an assortment small to large cams can provide traditionalists with plenty of fun. The Batress Crack is a great 5.8 that just sucks up pro! Routes vary from 5.4 to 5.13.

Popular Areas Near St. Louis



Elephant Rocks State Park



Welcome to Missouri's finest granite bouldering destination! Elephant Rocks offers a plethora of bouldering problems for every level climber. The rock is a large grained granite, which can be quite sharp and abrasive. Very good for friction though. Elephant Rocks is located about an hour and a half from St. Louis.

The park can be really crowded with family tourists, but I have yet to see any other climbers there. Because of the crowds, climbing is only recommended on weekdays. Also, roped climbing is prohibited within the park.

Johnson Shut-Ins State Park

A direct quote from Jim Thurmond & Joe Reidhead's book Rock Climbs of Johnson Shut-Ins State Park:

"During the climbing season, Johnson Shut-Ins is an excellent place for beginner climbers to get off the ground outdoors. It is an equally excellent crag for the expert who wants to shred tips and get a good pump. Often, more then one route can be climbed using the same top rope. The density of the routes allows beginners and experts to climbs side by side."

Johnson Shut-Ins is Missouri's old school traditional crag. The wall cut out by the Black River offers great possibilities for traditional leads. Much like Vedauwoo or Joshua Tree, Johnson Shut-Ins is a great destination for all.

St. Francois State Park

Limestone is many areas around St. Louis can be of extremely poor quality, but at the park that is not the case. Upon arrival, hike up the steep trail and you will meet a bolted wall of extremely high quality rock. This is the first area. From here, head left, down the bluff line and there are there is one separate area with bolted routes you will find. The farthest area has three bolted routes with bullet-hard rock and one great looking trad climb up a dihedral.

Popular Areas Near Kansas City



Cliff Drive

Climbing can be found almost in the heart of Kansas City? Too good to be true? Nope, it's there!

Along an old scenic byway, right off the road, limestone can be found. The area is shady, in more ways than one, but it seems to be improving. The rock tends to be smooth, forcing harder grips and improved foot technique. Perfect for training.

Summer can be hot and buggy and winter can be cold.

Warsaw



South-facing, decent quality limestone, lakeside bluffs. Sun all day, but usually windy. On good weekends, you may see 2 or 3 other parties.

Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging sport routes, though there are a few exceptions (trad, steep). Most require a 50 meter rope, but a 60 is necessary for the super sweet Tigerbill. Since access is from the top, toproping is also an option on most climbs.

Raven Rocks

Standalone sandstone towers. “Deep” water soloing. Year round climbing. Free Camping. Fixed steel lower-offs. And tons of easy to moderate sport climbs!

Popular Area Near Springfield



Peters Branch



Peter's Branch is a locally popular sandstone bouldering crag near Sparta, MO. Sitting within the Mark Twain National Forest with no official parking, it is not the most accessible crag. However, this crag does feature climbing from V0 to V10 on a some unique features in a remote setting. It is definitely worth the trouble.

Getting There

Click on individual areas to obtain specific directions.

685 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Missouri

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
Black Mamba
Boulder
V2 5+
Back Bend
Boulder
V3 6A
Fox Hollow Roof
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Andromeda Sprain
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birds of a Feather
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karp Tool
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Open Book
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet of Sound
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard)
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Turn Your Head and Cough
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Trad
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simple Math
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pinkerton
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Streaker
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
The Grand Finale
Sport
Black Mamba WM: Swope & Surro… > Swope Park Boulde… > Wudchuk Boulders V1 5 Boulder
Back Bend WM: Swope & Surro… > … > Eastside Wudchuk… > Trail Boulders V2 5+ Boulder
Fox Hollow Roof WM: Swope & Surro… > Swope Park Boulde… > Fox Hollow Trail V3 6A Boulder
Andromeda Sprain XM: Closed Areas > (Closed) Andromed… > Andromeda Sprain Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Birds of a Feather WM: Raven Rocks > Lighthouse (middle rock) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Karp Tool CM: Providence > N Area > Battress Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Open Book CM: Capen Park > Main Area 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Planet of Sound WM: Monegaw Springs > Burns Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard) CM: Providence > S Area 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Turn Your Head and Cough WM: Trapper's Camp > Pontoon Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Little Trad EM: St. Francois SP > B: Tre France Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Simple Math CM: Providence > N Area > Battress Area 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Pinkerton WM: Monegaw Springs > Burns Side 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Streaker XM: Closed Areas > (Closed) Wilton > Sport Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
The Grand Finale WM: Monegaw Springs > Refuge 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Missouri »

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Tyler S  
heading through missouri tomorrow. figured it might be a long shot for a weekday but anyone want to link up and climb some sport/trad (5.10-5.11 climber) willing to try anything lower or higher grade. coming out of denver and hoping to break up the drive to lexington. hit me up. Nov 6, 2017
Would like to learn to climb. Wondering if there is an instructor who takes people out for easy climbs near (water)
around Kansas City area? Or a short days drive? Thanks!
Contact me please. :) Jul 2, 2017
Hey I'm going to be visiting lake of the Ozarks next week and was curious if anyone had any info about the climbing there? I saw they advertise climbing on the state park website but I can't find any info on the climbs. May 23, 2017
mike varlotta
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
mike varlotta   Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
My son and i will be driving through Missouri on our way to Colorado this summer. We would like to spend a day or two sampling Missouri's best roped climbs. We prefer to lead, either sport or trad is fine, and if there is a great spot that is only TR, we would consider that, too. Can somebody recommend the best one or two places to visit? Fairly easy access will be a definite plus as it will be our first time in the area and we might only have one day to climb. May 15, 2017
Scott Riley
Columbia, Missouri
Scott Riley   Columbia, Missouri
Since Mo' Beta's release on 10/4/16, 5 new routes have been developed in Boone County (Providence/Wilton) with more coming (as of 11/30/16). The climbing in Missouri is growing, pretty exciting! Nov 30, 2016
Eero46  
Found a good article discussing the KC climbing scene.

climbingzine.com/4140-2/ Feb 17, 2016
Is there a rock climbing guide to bouldering and sport routes at Lake of the Ozarks State park? I can't find anything.
THanks,
J May 19, 2015
Donovan Allen
Subaru
Donovan Allen   Subaru
Hey, anyone know of any climbing around Osceola or Stockton lake? I know there is plenty of rock down there. Just wanted to know if anyone is putting up routes in the area. Gonna visit some family who live by Stockton come spring. Def wanna climb even if I have to rap bolt some FA's, but I figure I should ask the locals opinion first.
Thanks - DoNstamos Dec 30, 2013
Paul Hutton
Dirtbaggin
Paul Hutton   Dirtbaggin
I'm itching to hit Capen Park tomorrow (Thursday 13th). Hit me up! 816-529-5284. Dec 12, 2012
Hey, I had posted on the forums and didn't get any replies. Anyone going to be around Dec 23-30? I'll be in the KC area and either going to ibex or heading down to warsaw for a day. Let me know if you're interested, thanks! Dec 10, 2012
Paul Hutton
Dirtbaggin
Paul Hutton   Dirtbaggin
I'm home in Blue Springs for 2 weeks. I top rope and sport climb, wanting to get a handle on trad. I like any assortment of difficulty. I'm goin to check out some crag at a quarry near stadium drive today. Hit me up! 816-529-5284

Edit 03DEC2012: Mmk nvm, I mixed up Columbia's Stadium Dr with my KC's Stadium Dr! So don't make that mistake! Dec 2, 2012
Mike-R
springfield, Mo
Mike-R   springfield, Mo
Any climbers going to trappers this weekend? I'm coming in from Springfield and it would be nice to know that others were around in case something happened. Apr 5, 2012
Eero46  
Hey guys go check out the pickle springs area. I am trying to help develop the bouldering scene there.

mountainproject.com/v/pickl… Feb 20, 2012
Mike-R
springfield, Mo
Mike-R   springfield, Mo
Looking for a climbing partner to go crag hunting with me. I live in the Springfield area. The crag is 30 mins away from springfield. That's all I say. The crag is based on a topo map and needs to be explored. (found the cliff. Turns out you need a boat to get there across the river. Stay tune of more information) Dec 27, 2011
"J"
"J"  
New to the KCMO area, in need of a climbing partner I am a solid 5.10* climber from NM and not sure how the climbs are really rated up here. I am around 180 pounds and I like to climb up (ha) so I may fall on you.
Any takers? Aug 23, 2011
İs there any climber who live in branson??? I live in branson and ı cant find climbing wall or rock or partner!!! Aug 10, 2011
Johnson shut inns is open to climbing from labor day-memorial day, you must have helmut, and fill out forms, rangers will check! Mar 8, 2011
John McMullen
El Portal, CA
John McMullen   El Portal, CA
Is Johnson's Shut-ins off limits to climbing? I used to climb there when I was a kid ... curious to know why it's not listed? Apr 25, 2009

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