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Areas in CM: Providence

Main Area 8 / 18 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
North Area 4 / 24 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
South Area 3 / 21 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Elevation: 566 ft
GPS: 38.836, -92.406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,376 total · 1,071/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Sep 23, 2016 with updates
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug
Getting weather forecast...

Description

At this time, over a one hundred established routes trace faint white lines up the variety of crags that tower over the Perche Creek and the Eagle Bluffs Conservation ponds, along the Missouri River. The ponds are often filled with ducks, geese, an occasional heron, and regularly surveyed by eagles from above. Ready made game trails see deer, possum, and fox traffic daily as they zigzag the base of many of the rocky cliffs. A good layer of trees offer a great buffer between the yoga stretching climbers and the bikes racing by, on the Katy Trail below. Hardwood foliage, provides shade through the summer months before bursting into warm fall colors. Autumn winds eventually scatter the impressionistic rainbow over the ground, allowing the winter sun to kiss the limestone grey, streak ridden walls by the afternoon. Towards sunset, the breeze seems to calm, the ducks really start to chatter, the still ponds reflect the orange glow of the heavens, and the reality of the days accomplishments truly starts to take hold. The Providence experience is truly like no other.

Rock Conditions

From Marcus Floyd,
"Wow, was the first thought that went through my mind when I first found this jewel. The rock quality is quite good for more than a majority of the routes. Like most of the rock walls, along this stretch of the Missouri River, two horizontal chert bands divide the wall into two or three sections. Pockets of broken chert are just par for the course, in these parts! Belayers should stay alert and always wear a climbing helmet. It's not a bad idea to stand off to one side to avoid all possible rock fall."

Weather Conditions

Most Providence area cliffs receives plenty of sun, year around, so it dries very quick. Plan to experience great climbing conditions spring, fall, and winter, then beat the summer heat by planning to send these lines during the morning hours. Some shade trees provide shelter from the sun at many of the belay areas through the summer.

Getting There

From Columbia: drive south of Columbia on Providence about 5 miles until you come to a river access sign to Providence landing. Follow the access signs to the parking lot. Head east from the parking lot on the KATY trail. Less than half a mile to the bluffs. Scramble up a steep trail to the base of the bluffs.

78 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at CM: Providence

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Battress Crack
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunny Place For Shady People
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Primal
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skunk Compas
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Drunk Dumb-Ass
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Providence Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BatManDu
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karp Tool
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard)
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Regurgitated Bird
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Around Town
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ancient Sea Friends
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smells Like Bat Spirit
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simple Math
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slimestone Cowboy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Battress Crack N Area > Battress Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Sunny Place For Shady People S Area 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Primal N Area > Primal Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Skunk Compas S Area 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Drunk Dumb-Ass S Area 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Providence Crack Main Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
BatManDu N Area > Battress Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Karp Tool N Area > Battress Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard) S Area 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Regurgitated Bird Main Area 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Around Town S Area 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Ancient Sea Friends Main Area 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Smells Like Bat Spirit N Area > Battress Area 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Simple Math N Area > Battress Area 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Slimestone Cowboy Main Area 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in CM: Providence »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
The rock quality here is very sketchy. Don't forget your helmet. The approach is only about an 1/8 mi down the Katy trail. Very steep approach to the cliff base. Feb 23, 2016
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
Word Feb 17, 2013
Jon B
Kittredge, CO
Jon B   Kittredge, CO
That big piece of iron/rock isn't there anymore. Not sure who took it out but it had to take some muscle! Dec 14, 2011
James Dolph
Columbia, MO
James Dolph   Columbia, MO
i THINK you're referring to the line i sent back in 2008 called "Iron Clad 5.10a" (due to it's distinctive large iron deposit 1/2 way up the wall), re-named after it was bolted by Kevin Capps in 2010 "regurgitated bird 5.10c Dec 4, 2011

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