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Routes in South Area

Above My Pay Grade S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Alley Cat T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Around Town S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt It and They Will Come S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clip Art S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Drunk Dumb-Ass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fox Trap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hail of a Traverse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Juvenile S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nothing Dynamic About It S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
O'Shit Approved S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Off My Ass S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Plank Road S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Owl Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plan B S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Skunk Compas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slab Town S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squirel Eye T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Place For Shady People S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Walk The Plank S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Garden S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whiskey Throttle S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Window of Opportunity S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Description

This specific Providence South Area wall was first mentioned back in the Mid 90's "Climber's Guide to the Midwest", as the Pocket Wall. Many of the sport lines were bolted more recently, between 2005 and 2010, with the goal of finding quality lines of resistance for both beginners and seasoned leaders. One of the original trad lines follow a 100 foot traverse left along a crack which starts on a slab, heads under a long roof section to a ledge at the base of a drainage called The Alley, then finishes following The Alley up to rap anchors. This trad line is called "Hail of a Traverse."

If climbing during the summer, this area is shaded, but best climbed in the morning, due to the cliffs south west exposure. During the winter, late in the day will prove to be a warming reminder of why you love to climb.

South Providence is currently home to a wide variety of sport route difficulties, ranging from 5.7 to 5.13. A couple mixed routes provide traditionalist with gear placement options, but for the most part established route follow sport route bolted anchors. As of 2016, around 30 routes are bolted, or established, as free climbs.

Getting There

Park at the Providence Access parking lot, then head east on the trail.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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