Elevation: 720 ft
GPS: 38.833, -92.4 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,891 total · 310/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Sep 23, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

Description

This specific Providence South Area wall was first mentioned back in the Mid 90's "Climber's Guide to the Midwest", as the Pocket Wall. Many of the sport lines were bolted more recently, between 2005 and 2010, with the goal of finding quality lines of resistance for both beginners and seasoned leaders. One of the original trad lines follow a 100 foot traverse left along a crack which starts on a slab, heads under a long roof section to a ledge at the base of a drainage called The Alley, then finishes following The Alley up to rap anchors. This trad line is called "Hail of a Traverse."

If climbing during the summer, this area is shaded, but best climbed in the morning, due to the cliffs south west exposure. During the winter, late in the day will prove to be a warming reminder of why you love to climb.

South Providence is currently home to a wide variety of sport route difficulties, ranging from 5.7 to 5.13. A couple mixed routes provide traditionalist with gear placement options, but for the most part established route follow sport route bolted anchors. As of 2016, around 30 routes are bolted, or established, as free climbs.

Getting There

Park at the Providence Access parking lot, then head east on the trail.

24 Total Climbs

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Location: South Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Juvenile
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Slab Town
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Owl Eyes
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 18
Sunny Place For Shady People
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Drunk Dumb-Ass
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 6
Clip Art
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Bolt It and They Will Come
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Old Plank Road
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Skunk Compas
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard)
Sport, TR
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 19
Around Town
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 6
Squirrel Eye
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Nothing Dynamic About It
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Juvenile
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Slab Town
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Owl Eyes
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sunny Place For Shady People
 18
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Drunk Dumb-Ass
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Clip Art
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Bolt It and They Will Come
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Old Plank Road
 3
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Skunk Compas
 7
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard)
 10
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Around Town
 19
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Squirrel Eye
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR 2 pitches
Nothing Dynamic About It
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Area »

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