Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Marcus floyd
Page Views: 239 total · 10/month
Shared By: Marcus Floyd on Nov 29, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Steep face leads to an obvious open dihedral below a roof and horizontal crack. Clip the permadraws and traverse right along the crack to the next bolt with chain. Feel free to place a small cam if you like or just dig in and reach for the good holds. Smear and step up right to the small ledge then continue up the seam then left to the rap anchors.

Location

Right of Window of Opportunity and left of Owl Eyes.

Protection

Quick draws (small cams and nuts are optional) what ever make you feel better.

Photos

Pat0
 
Pat0  
 
Would be nice to have a 5th bolt reachable after the roof traverse instead of having to place pro in one of the finger cracks.

Only other issue was the dirty holds, but that seems ubiquitous in this area, making the climbing much more difficult than the given rating. May 17, 2017
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
  5.10c PG13
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
  5.10c PG13
Risking some hate here.

I think this route needs to be re-bolted. WERE ONE TO FALL going to the anchors, which involves a very weird move over the bulge, the leader risks a huge swing, possibly hitting a ledge on the way down. I've led it twice now, and frankly, with the way it is currently protected, I tell everyone I climb with to avoid the route. I'm eternally grateful to whoever bolted it, because it is a really great climb with fun, varied, and sustained movement, but this thing is really scary. Aug 2, 2017
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.10c/d
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
  5.10c/d
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll consider the recommendations. Originally, I used small cams and nuts for additional pro but completely up to you. Some people are better at slab then others. Completely understand. Also, I plan to move the perma-draws to another route which were not used for the first ascent.. Again, thanks for the feedback Nov 12, 2017
Billy Arthur
St. Louis
Billy Arthur   St. Louis
youtu.be/G3Pag-Yg_UQ taken 8/2018, such a amazing looking route. Oct 15, 2018