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Routes in South Area

Above My Pay Grade S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Alley Cat T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Around Town S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt It and They Will Come S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clip Art S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Drunk Dumb-Ass S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fox Trap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hail of a Traverse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Juvenile S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nothing Dynamic About It S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
O'Shit Approved S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Off My Ass S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Plank Road S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Owl Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plan B S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Skunk Compas S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slab Town S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squirel Eye T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunny Place For Shady People S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Walk The Plank S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Garden S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whiskey Throttle S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Window of Opportunity S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Marcus Floyd
Page Views: 209 total · 9/month
Shared By: Marcus Floyd on Nov 19, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

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Description

Start the line near the cedar tree, below the large hole. Boulder the begining with your belayer being a temporary spotter. Use slopers and small edges to mantle up and into the openning. Stand and clip your first bolt. Continue up the steep, thin, broken seam. Once over then hump, climb up a dihedral to the belay ledge. You can rap or you this ledge to continue over to and up another line.

Location

First bolts right of Juvenile drainage, starting behind a cedar tree, below a very large hole.

Protection

Quick draws and runners

Photos

Nathan Walton
Van Meter, IA
  5.9-
Nathan Walton   Van Meter, IA
  5.9-
nice lil warmup, forewarned the cave may contain scary, young vultures and their smelliness Jun 25, 2017
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
 
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
 
Climbing past the terrifying vultures is definitely the crux, and makes a solid case for including speed climbing in the olympics. Feb 14, 2018
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.8+
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
  5.8+
NIce, LOL! Feb 16, 2018
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.8+
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
  5.8+
For those of you who do not know about the Metolius Rap Hanger design, here is some info. It is an over-sized, thick rap hanger that has been left as a permanent part of the two bolt rap anchor for this route. The design allows a climber to thread their rope through the hanger when setting up for rapping back down and off of the route. Feb 16, 2018

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