Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Area

Above My Pay Grade S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Alley Cat T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Around Town S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt It and They Will Come S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clip Art S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunk Dumb-Ass S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fox Trap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hail of a Traverse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Juvenile S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nothing Dynamic About It S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
O'Shit Approved S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Off My Ass S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Plank Road S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Owl Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plan B S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Skunk Compas S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slab Town S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squirel Eye T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunny Place For Shady People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk The Plank S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Garden S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whiskey Throttle S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Window of Opportunity S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marcus Floyd
Page Views: 105 total, 8/month
Shared By: Marcus Floyd on Nov 19, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Plan B is simply the easiest line of least resistance that allowed me to climb up to the mid-cliff dihedral, then continue climbing upward to the top of the rock face, on the most enjoyable path.
The first and more difficult line conceived, involves climbing up the line of bolts, directly below the dihedral. This route is called 'Oshit Approved.' It was originally a 12a/b slab that lost one of the essential, small holds during an ascent by Jon Batson. Needless to say, it became a bit harder, so I looked for a plan B option to utilize the rest of a fun route.
Plan B moves up and left, over the first bulge, across the slab towards the dihedral. Move up using the pocket and clip to rap anchor on your right. Rap 50 feet from here or continue climbing up a grass ledge to gain access to the upper face. Several bolts well protect easy climbing, another 40 feet to the top of the bluff.

Location

30 feet to the right of Skunk Compass, start using a shared first bolt, then head up and left and over the bulge toward the obvious pocket dihedral.

Protection

Quick Draws and runners

Photos

0 Comments