Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jim Karpowicz
Page Views: 606 total · 5/month
Shared By: James Dolph on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This climb is the bolted climb left of ProvidenceCrack,? and was put up by the route artist, Jim Karpowicz. Climb up past two bolts to a crack in a right-facing dihedral. Protect the crack, then go right back onto the face to an undercling and a hard clip from the undercling. After getting the clip, pull a well-protected crux, then run it out to the top. The bottom offers some attention-getting moves, and the protection in the dihedral is probably good, but there is a good chance it would get tested if the leader is not comfortable at 5.10.

Location

first bolted route left of providence crack

Protection

Gear: despite 3 bolts, this route can take a variety of gear. i (btw) advise that you take mid-large wires for the dihedral, and a couple of cams in the thin-hands to wide-hands range for the shelf.

Photos

Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
 
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
 
I advise everyone to beware of the distance betweent the first and second bolt relative to the ground potential. I would be happy to place a second safety bolt!

I have climbed this great mixed route noumerous times, since it was bolted, and have wondered everytime "what in the **** am I doing?"

Despite this potential ground possibility, I rate this route as a classic. Dec 19, 2011
Has this route received any additional bolts or does it still go with the potential ground fall at the start. Oct 1, 2018
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
I would think that would be up to Jim to decide. Oct 2, 2018