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Routes in Main Area

Ancient Sea Friends S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bootlegger S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Both Get Hard On Top S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Calling All Pro T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Distillery Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edge of Darkness S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fist of Gold S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fright Flight S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gold Nugget S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Banker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Moon Shine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
My First Rodeo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Next Time, Send a Card S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nice Stems TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prohibition T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prospector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prospector Traverse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Providence Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Regurgitated Bird S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Return to Sender S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slimestone Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Step by Step S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Texas Two Step T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
What's Left T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
What's Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Courage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jim Karpowicz
Page Views: 548 total · 5/month
Shared By: James Dolph on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

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Description

This climb is the bolted climb left of ProvidenceCrack,? and was put up by the route artist, Jim Karpowicz. Climb up past two bolts to a crack in a right-facing dihedral. Protect the crack, then go right back onto the face to an undercling and a hard clip from the undercling. After getting the clip, pull a well-protected crux, then run it out to the top. The bottom offers some attention-getting moves, and the protection in the dihedral is probably good, but there is a good chance it would get tested if the leader is not comfortable at 5.10.

Location

first bolted route left of providence crack

Protection

Gear: despite 3 bolts, this route can take a variety of gear. i (btw) advise that you take mid-large wires for the dihedral, and a couple of cams in the thin-hands to wide-hands range for the shelf.

Photos

Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
 
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
 
I advise everyone to beware of the distance betweent the first and second bolt relative to the ground potential. I would be happy to place a second safety bolt!

I have climbed this great mixed route noumerous times, since it was bolted, and have wondered everytime "what in the **** am I doing?"

Despite this potential ground possibility, I rate this route as a classic. Dec 19, 2011

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