Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||1,042 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Marcus Floyd on Dec 3, 2011|
|Admins:||Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug|
GOLD NUGGET 12 c/d - Step up sloped bulge to first bolt, then stem bulge dihedral to softball sized pocket. The lower vertical face (10a) requires balance then gives way to a horizontal band of gold colored rock. Grab the large "Gold Nugget" then with a heel hook behind nugget, reach up to obvious pockets to clip the fifth bolt and prepare for the crux. A solid fist jam in the big pocket helps me reach up from the pockets. The crux reaches of this gem (12c/d)are dynamic, for me, and require much power using the right gaston before gaining a secure stance below the second roof (large flake). Clip the gold-brown bolt hanger, on the left, and traverse two step to the left using the flake. Clipping the next gold-brown hanger requires gaining the lip of the next self via another fun gaston press (11+). Gain the ledge and continue up easy moves to the arete and last bolt before the rap anchors. Just below the anchors is a shelf with small loose rocks. Optional Finish: Fists of Gold - Move through the same main crux then at the mid roof flake, clip the bolt on the right then step out right to follow a layback edge and balancy face moves to gain the rap anchors. Choose to rap at this point or traverse left to the arete and last bolt before Gold Nugget rap anochors. Note: Be careful of rocks on the ledge above the rap anchors! Feel free to keep cleaning off this shelf. Beware belayer's, use helmets! FYI- I wanted to place another anchor at the crux but the rock was not letting me place a bolt where I wanted.
These routes are 15 meters left of the obvious, classic Providence Crack. Just left, at the top of root ladder approach trail, a ripple slab bulge fades to a vertical face just pasted a softball sized pocket. Look for steep, "holy****" provoking double overhang!