Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Marcus Floyd
Page Views: 1,042 total · 12/month
Shared By: Marcus Floyd on Dec 3, 2011
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Gold Beta

GOLD NUGGET 12 c/d - Step up sloped bulge to first bolt, then stem bulge dihedral to softball sized pocket. The lower vertical face (10a) requires balance then gives way to a horizontal band of gold colored rock. Grab the large "Gold Nugget" then with a heel hook behind nugget, reach up to obvious pockets to clip the fifth bolt and prepare for the crux. A solid fist jam in the big pocket helps me reach up from the pockets. The crux reaches of this gem (12c/d)are dynamic, for me, and require much power using the right gaston before gaining a secure stance below the second roof (large flake). Clip the gold-brown bolt hanger, on the left, and traverse two step to the left using the flake. Clipping the next gold-brown hanger requires gaining the lip of the next self via another fun gaston press (11+). Gain the ledge and continue up easy moves to the arete and last bolt before the rap anchors. Just below the anchors is a shelf with small loose rocks. Optional Finish: Fists of Gold - Move through the same main crux then at the mid roof flake, clip the bolt on the right then step out right to follow a layback edge and balancy face moves to gain the rap anchors. Choose to rap at this point or traverse left to the arete and last bolt before Gold Nugget rap anochors. Note: Be careful of rocks on the ledge above the rap anchors! Feel free to keep cleaning off this shelf. Beware belayer's, use helmets! FYI- I wanted to place another anchor at the crux but the rock was not letting me place a bolt where I wanted.


These routes are 15 meters left of the obvious, classic Providence Crack. Just left, at the top of root ladder approach trail, a ripple slab bulge fades to a vertical face just pasted a softball sized pocket. Look for steep, "holy****" provoking double overhang!


8 bolts + Rap Anchors


Fayetteville, WV
SmithVentures   Fayetteville, WV
More pics please. Dec 4, 2011
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
Good movement. Some loose rock, and very large whip potential at the cruxes. Could use some cleaning and rethinking of the bolt placements. Another star if both these things happen. If 5.12 is hard, top rope it first; I am happy I did. Oct 20, 2012
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
After reading the description of the route and all the beta, I feel like adding a little beta myself. Thus, if you don't want beta, stop reading.

At no point did I ever heal hook the "gold nugget". The middle of three pockets by the chains has a huge hold on the left hand side. From there you can put a right foot on top of the gold nugget and a left foot right above the roof for a poor stem. If you follow the small right angling dihedral like feature, there is a two finger hold on top which provides a good intermediate and there is a good hold directly above the chains. After repositioning the body, there is an obvious flake for a high gaston, work feet up, grab flake with left hand also, press up until you can reach a jug out left with the left hand. A fall from here (the crux) could be costly; I don't know if the previous bolt is positioned such that you would not hit the slab below. There is nothing inherently dynamic, but it is powerful due to the hard and high gaston. The second crux is more straight forward, but it is key to move left on the ledge above the bolt to two good holds. Probably mid 11 if you find the right holds, but may feel much harder until you find them. Oct 25, 2012
William Palmieri
Columbia, MO
William Palmieri   Columbia, MO
Fun route and can't agree more with Elijah. It's a good 12 with some potential for a dangerous fall when clipping the second bolt after the perma at the crux. I didn't heal hook the golden nugget and don't be lured up and left from the large hueco before the crux as the rock is crumbly. I threw up right to a large crimp and matched then pulled up to the flake and then stood up into the crack just below the first bolt after the crux. 11a moves over the second roof. If i were to send it again I would extend a sling on this bolt (second after perma) so I could clip before I moved over the second roof. It would really suck if you missed clipping second bolt. Dec 2, 2012
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
Bolt added at the crux as requested. Understand the request, I just did feel as if I was going to be able to utilize the clip during a lead. hope this serves others well:) thanks for the comments, Floyd
Dec 27, 2015
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
Great route with great moves despite a little choss.

Edit: Also, to contribute to the beta conversation below, I did not heel hook the nugget or get a fist jam in definite crux right after the midway anchor. The crux involves holds that have all been described below, maybe a V5/6 boulder problem, although it sounds like everyone climbs it differently.. The intermediate Elijah mentions is money- those with small hands can get most of a third finger on it. A good handjam rest leads into the second crux- Will calls it 11a, Marcus calls it 11+, I'd say the truth for me seemed somewhere in between there, maybe 11b/c? V3? Who cares. The climb is awesome. GET ON IT! Sep 11, 2018