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Routes in Main Area

Ancient Sea Friends S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bootlegger S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Both Get Hard On Top S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Calling All Pro T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Distillery Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edge of Darkness S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fist of Gold S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fright Flight S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gold Nugget S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Banker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Moon Shine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
My First Rodeo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Next Time, Send a Card S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nice Stems TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prohibition T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prospector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prospector Traverse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Providence Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Regurgitated Bird S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Return to Sender S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slimestone Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Step by Step S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Texas Two Step T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
What's Left T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
What's Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Courage S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 962 total, 9/month
Shared By: James Dolph on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

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Description

This climb follows the obvious crack up the middle of the face, and is one of the classics in the Columbia area. Start with a wide chimney, then grovel into an offwidth section. Bring large cams to protect this part. After the offwidth, continue climbing up a good and easy-to-protect hand crack until you get to a small roof, and the crack becomes more of a water groove. Place all the tricams you own on a shelf under the roof, then gun for the top. The crux occurs right when your feet get to the last piece of gear, but the runout after the crux is easy. This is a well-protected climb, but if you are not comfortable at 5.10, then there may be some major air time at the crux.

Location

large crack in middle of bluff

Protection

tricams, large cams (black diamond 2 and up)

Photos

Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.10+
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
  5.10+
Classic crack in Boone County and very enjoyable to climb. Dec 19, 2011
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.10+
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
  5.10+
Please edit this route location as a sorted route. Mosts routes along the wall are x-number of feet relative to Providence Crack.
Thanks in advance Jay! Dec 19, 2011