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Ancient Sea Friends S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bootlegger S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Both Get Hard On Top S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Calling All Pro T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Distillery Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edge of Darkness S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fist of Gold S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fright Flight S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gold Nugget S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Banker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Moon Shine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
My First Rodeo T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Next Time, Send a Card S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nice Stems TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prohibition T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prospector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prospector Traverse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Providence Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Regurgitated Bird S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Return to Sender S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slimestone Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Step by Step S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Texas Two Step T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
What's Left T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
What's Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Courage S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kevin Capps, lead on gear by Ben Williams
Page Views: 1,062 total, 13/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Jan 21, 2011
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Climb the easy warm up slab, do some stretches on the ledge, and then wedge yourself in the dihedrel and get ready to hang on for the next 20 feet. The crux is very balancy and you will know it when you come to it!

Location

look for the giant dihedrel. just right of next time, send a card

Protection

6 bolts and 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Hansen Wendlandt
  5.11+
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.11+
Drives me nuts to force an awkward move over a ledge, to gain a high bolt. That ruined the fun lower section and the cool first dihedral. Easily could have had a lower bolt there.
Then, gaining the final section (with undercling, sidecrimp, press-up) is awesome, but something essential seems to be missing for the top out. The last move to the anchors is way more than 11a now, in my humble-d opinion. Nov 27, 2017
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.11a/b
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
  5.11a/b
Rebolted and cleaned for safe travel, this route gives the best of both worlds. 5.9 or less is below the roof with protected chain lowering anchors at each clip through middle dihedral. The main roof expose the upper intermediate division of climbing by forsing the body position into an arete. Take the under cling to the main good face hold via a small small leftfacing crack. Next, press intothe roof and rest. Goodluck resting. Clip and head right with a highstep. adjust the left hand and reach right to a bump hold. Adjust left foot and bump right hand to an axe edge, finish hold. Finish rock surface fell with cleaning, so finish out right. Camp next to the river below. Feb 17, 2013
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.11a/b
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
  5.11a/b
Old school 5.9 "below" the main roof, the upper crux is for sure a 5.11. As a 1990's Trad line: Too Wiered For Words was a bold lead for sure. Listed in the 1998 climbing guide book as a TR, this route was not reccommended for future trad ascents because of the lack of protection. Feel free to give the route a try via pure trad style or try to head up the flake to the right then out right of the dihedral to the upper left-facing crack. Goodluck!

This gem, now a bolted sport line, was a trad line that surely needed the bolts. At the same time, the top of this route is no less dicy than Providence Crack's trad finish! Good job Kevin. I also like the new name. No one knew it as Nice Stems.


Dec 3, 2011