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Elevation: 1,197 ft
GPS: 36.965, -92.93878
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Shared By: Dustin Stotser on Dec 15, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Nick Richards

Description Suggest change

Peter's Branch is a locally popular sandstone bouldering crag near Sparta, MO. Sitting within the Mark Twain National Forest with no official parking, it is not the most accessible crag. However, this crag does feature climbing from V0 to V13 on a some unique features in a remote setting. It is definitely worth the trouble.

Check out Southwest Missouri Bouldering by Justin Frese - now available climbsource.com/products/so… - Covering over 600 problems and 20 plus areas - it provides detailed instructions for Peter's Branch and more in Mark Twain National Forest.

Getting There Suggest change

There are a few options for access. Unfortunately, the only one with ample parking has a horrible approach. The most common parking and approach are found most easily by being shown in person. For this reason, I will only describe the one access.

From Sparta, MO:
Head east out of town on Missouri 125 S which will soon curve south.
In about 2 miles, turn left(east) on Hwy T at the "town" of Oldfield.
Continue for six miles until you cross Swan Creek, then take an immediate left onto Keltner Road (gravel)
Follow this road a short way and after the second LOW WATER crossing, parking will be on the right. It is just a widened section of the road but there is plenty of room to park. From here, the crag is roughly 1500-2000ft SSE (yes, over that monster hill!)with NO TRAIL.

This parking is not available during periods of high water due to the low water crossings(I assume you don't want to climb wet rock anyway).

Coordinates: 36.965002, -92.938791

50 Total Climbs

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Location: SW: Peter's Branch Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at SW: Peter's Branch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1-2 5
 16
Dolly Parton
Boulder
V2 5+
 11
Tinactin
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 10
Ain't Gonna Be Pretty
Boulder
V3 6A
 11
Dry Dreams
Boulder
V4 6B
 34
Jabba the Hut
Boulder
V4 6B
 5
Flying Man Dude
Boulder
V4 6B
 14
Farkle Arete
Boulder
V5 6C
 22
Swinging Machete
Boulder
V5 6C
 22
Pistol Grip Pump
Boulder
V6 7A
 10
Softball
Boulder
V7- 7A+
 17
Turn of the Screw
Boulder
V7 7A+
 13
Turtlehead
Boulder
V9 7C
 4
Inamorata
Boulder
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V7 7A+
 16
Natural D's
Boulder
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V8 7B
 6
The Nemesis
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dolly Parton Softball
 16
V1-2 5 Boulder
Tinactin Sunny Side
 11
V2 5+ Boulder
Ain't Gonna Be Pretty Future Cave
 10
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Dry Dreams Sunny Side
 11
V3 6A Boulder
Jabba the Hut Sunny Side
 34
V4 6B Boulder
Flying Man Dude Sunny Side
 5
V4 6B Boulder
Farkle Arete Turtle Head
 14
V4 6B Boulder
Swinging Machete Sunny Side
 22
V5 6C Boulder
Pistol Grip Pump Future Cave
 22
V5 6C Boulder
Softball Softball
 10
V6 7A Boulder
Turn of the Screw Sunny Side
 17
V7- 7A+ Boulder
Turtlehead Turtle Head
 13
V7 7A+ Boulder
Inamorata Sunny Side
 4
V9 7C Boulder
Natural D's Future Cave
 16
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V7 7A+ Boulder
The Nemesis Future Cave
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V8 7B Boulder
More Classic Climbs in SW: Peter's Branch »

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