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Elevation: 669 ft 204 m
GPS: 38.9306, -92.3207
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,459 total · 456/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Sep 23, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Nick Richards

Description Suggest change

Small crag with about 20 routes and around 50' tall. Most of the routes are top roped due to the nature of the limestone. Very easy access, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs.

There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top.

Getting There Suggest change

From the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left.

1 minute approach from parking. Walk down to the creek to look up at the routes or just head to the top and drop your ropes if you know what you want to set up.

Guidebook

45 Total Climbs

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Location: CM: Capen Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at CM: Capen Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 12
Mister Easy
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
Community Service
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Three Horns
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Russian Vault
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Roots
TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Green Slime
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 5
Rock Garden
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
The Open Book
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 7
Chris' Reach
TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 4
Pick Pocket
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Missouri Breaks
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Foot Loose
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
White Lightning
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Mano Y Mano
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Swing Time
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mister Easy Capen Main Wall
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 TR
Community Service Drive-In > Trundle Wall
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Three Horns Capen Main Wall
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Russian Vault Capen Main Wall
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Roots Capen Main Wall
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Green Slime Capen Main Wall
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Rock Garden Capen Main Wall
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR
The Open Book Capen Main Wall
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Chris' Reach Capen Main Wall
 7
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b TR
Pick Pocket Drive-In > Second Wall
 4
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Missouri Breaks Capen Main Wall
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Foot Loose Capen Main Wall
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
White Lightning Capen Main Wall
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Mano Y Mano Drive-In > Trundle Wall
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Swing Time Capen Main Wall
 7
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in CM: Capen Park »

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