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Areas in Pere Marquette State Park

A: Lily Wall 5 / 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
B: Lucky Strike Pillar 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
C: Hornbein's Wall 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
D: Community Effort Wall 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
E: Ryan's Balcony 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
F: Tombstone 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
G: The Wall of Wild Things 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
H: Eagle Wall 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
I: Meadow Slab 2 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
J: Boy Scout Cove 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
K: Jenga Diseaster Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Access Issue: PLEASE STAY ON TRAIL!!! Details

Please Note

This area is IN PROGRESS. All climbing information will be added as soon as it is developed. As per the Site Superintendent, no development is to be done without the presence of the Illinois Climbers Association.

Description

The Illinois Climbers Association is proud to present Illinois' newest rock climbing destination, Pere Marquette State Park. Located an hour from St. Louis just outside the lively town of Grafton, Pere Marquette offers highly featured limestone formations great for climbing. Since early 2015 the ICA has been working with the Illinois Department of Natural Resources to gain their blessing for this project, which includes new trails, landscaping with natural rock steps, and both sport routes and top-anchors for traditional leads. This new climbing area will ultimately have over 60 climbing routes.

Park Map

Area Ethics

This is a brand new rock climbing site and it needs your help to protect and conserve the area. Always keep in mind that developing this site was a tall order and required countless labor hours to create what we now have. Always take into consideration that not everything will be clean and you will find holds to be dirty from time to time. Please do your part to be a responsible climber and help to educate others in the suggested site ethics.

AREAS ETHICS:

-Please only use designated trails. We need your help to prevent erosion

-NEVER CLEAN HOLDS WITH A WIRE BRUSH! Limestone will eventually become polished, thus making it much harder/slicker to climb. If holds are dirty please only use Nylon or Horse/Board Hair Brushes to clean and remove dirt from holds.

-Do your best to abide by Leave No Trace Ethics

-Do not top rope from trees! It is extremely dangerous and has a good chance of knocking rocks free and onto your party

The Illinois Climbers Association has spent a lot of time and resources to create and give this area to the public. Please do your part to help them out and conserve this area for others.

Resources

[[Illinois Climbers Association]]ilclimbers.org
Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a non profit organization dedicated to promoting climbing knowledge, conserving climbing environments, and serving the Illinois climbing community.

Importance/Significance of Pere Marquette

This is the first time the Illinois Department of Natural Resources has reached out to the Illinois Climbers Association to develop a climbing area in one of it's state parks. Pere Marquette State Park is also the first Midwestern crag to be solely equipped with titanium fixed safety anchors. British-based Titan Climbing company's titanium "Eterna" bolts have been chosen for this project for longevity and high quality.

Come celebrate the ICA's huge achievement with the IDNR and enjoy a day of great limestone climbing!

Camping

Pere Marquette State Park has a nice campground located about 4 miles down the road right next to the visitors center. The park has some nice RV camping spots with electricity and a nice shower house, in addition, there is a primitive tent area located adjacent and separated from the RV area to help create separation. For more information and to reserve, Click Here The park also has a 1930's style CCC built lodge with nice accomodations as well. For more information Click Here

Getting There

Refer to map

Special Thanks

As written by David Hug:

A huge Kudos needs to be made to the volunteers who have donated so much of their time to this project. People are as follows:

-Ryan Richardson, former board member of the ICA, deserves credit at the one who got the ball rolling on the project. While spending time at Principia College, he and their club began cleaning up the faces, removing vegetation, and removing loose blocks from the wall. Thanks for your personal investment in the project.

-Bill Weishaar, huge proponent of the project. His contributions have been over the top and his investments include creating the switchback with stairs at the Lily Wall, helping to place equalized chains on many anchors, and helping to clean up/establish new routes in Boy Scout Cove, Meadow Slab, Ryan's Balcony, and Lily Wall

-Dan Rapp & Doug Rothe, both of which were also huge proponents for the project. They spent countless hours battling the heat and summer mosquito's to develop trails, remove invasive vegetation, and developing routes. Areas they helped create/develop include the Lily Wall, Lucky Strike Pillar, Meadow Slab, and Boy Scout Cove.

-Eric Ulner, former board member of the ICA, deserves credit and was incredibly helpful with negotiating with the IDNR to gain access to the climbing area.

-To the rest, thank you for your continued help and involvement in the site, we could have not done this without you.

Why Titanium?

Pere Marquette climbing development is an important project for the state of Illinois. Due to its importance, the Illinois Climbers Association decided to use the best quality materials to bolt with. Since Titan Climbing is the only certified Titanium manufacturer, they were the clear choice. The lasting effect of Titanium will only been seen over time, and the hope is for the bolts to last generations.

A quick excerpt from Titan Climbing about the power of Titanium:

(Angele Sjong, PhD was commissioned to carry out an accelerated corrosion test using one of our titanium bolts and a 316 stainless steel hanger (the test was an ASTM G36 boiling magnesium chloride test). The stainless steel hanger cracked in less than 4 ½ hours, whilst the titanium bolt was still going strong after the full 28 days of the test’s duration. In fact Sjong concluded that the titanium bolt had remained completely unaffected. Sjong added “There is an enormous difference between these two materials. You cannot even compare the corrosion resistance of titanium and steel”)

64 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pere Marquette State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 13
Spicy Guacamole
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Joeys Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Dead Mouse
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
The Ring Neck
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
River Nights & Flashlights
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Catfish & Bottlenecks
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
The Tallest Man
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 6
Hawkeye
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Riverboat Gambler
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Piasa Pusher
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Mississippi Side Step
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Hespen Arete
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Dietsche Legacy Ladder
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
The Father's Gift
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Fine Line
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spicy Guacamole F: Tombstone
 13
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Joeys Route I: Meadow Slab
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Dead Mouse A: Lily Wall
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Ring Neck A: Lily Wall
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
River Nights & Flashlights F: Tombstone
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Catfish & Bottlenecks B: Lucky Strike Pillar
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Tallest Man A: Lily Wall
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hawkeye H: Eagle Wall
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Riverboat Gambler I: Meadow Slab
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Piasa Pusher B: Lucky Strike Pillar
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mississippi Side Step I: Meadow Slab
 21
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hespen Arete F: Tombstone
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dietsche Legacy Ladder A: Lily Wall
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Father's Gift E: Ryan's Balcony
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Fine Line F: Tombstone
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Pere Marquette State Park »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Eero46  
Any bouldering? Nov 1, 2016
Looking forward to exploring this new place on dedication date Nov.21st. Hope to get some pics of various routes, and hope to find a printout list at park office of these said new bolted routes too. Nov 8, 2016
Bill McKirgan
Cedar Rapids, IA
Bill McKirgan   Cedar Rapids, IA
The hike in from the Great River Road parking areas is easy, but close to traffic so be alert and look out for each other. Once you are inside the gate the path is wide enough for one way traffic in a car! The picnic area is very nice and the trails are very well built. Jan 25, 2017
Tyler Metheney
St Louis
Tyler Metheney   St Louis
Does anyone know when the rest of the routes will be put up on the site? Ticked a few off the other day but have no idea what grade and or name. 3 were in the slab area an 1 was on the first wall you see from trail. Directly left of ringneck with a bouldery start. Feb 19, 2017
Dave Hug
Carbondale, Illinois
Dave Hug   Carbondale, Illinois  
Hey Tyler,

Im doing my best to stay on top of the route database. Thanks for giving me an extra kick. As for the routes you say you "ticked" not sure what your talking about. everything in the "Meadow Slab" area is up and online, and as for a route with a bouldery start left of Ring Neck, those are all up to. Now we have added about 10 more routes recently, and you will see them up this upcoming week Feb 19, 2017
Tyler Metheney
St Louis
Tyler Metheney   St Louis
Awesome thanks man. You guys did really well out there. Much appreciated. Feb 21, 2017
Lived here my whole life and without any climbing in this area, I literally moved to California for climbing opportunities. Just came back last week and went out today for a hike with a friend and noticed the anchors and bolts and we just looked at each other and smiled like kids with cake. This is epic! Definitely will be climbing here on a regular basis. So glad to see we are FINALLY getting some legit climbing out here! So Stoked! Would love to join the team making this all happen! Feb 26, 2017
Dave Hug
Carbondale, Illinois
Dave Hug   Carbondale, Illinois  
Follow the Illinois Climbers Association on Facebook and check the website to stay up to date. Feb 27, 2017
I think I left my Black BD Belay gloves at the crag on Sunday Feb 26. If anyone sees them or has them, it'd be cool to be reacquainted with those hand protectors. Mar 7, 2017
I would like to post a suggestion and a warning about the parking area after my last few climbing trips to Pere Marquette. First, please don't park parallel to the highway at the gravel pull-off parking area. Many more cars (and thus, climbers!) will be able to safely get to the crag if we park perpendicular to the road in this area. Second, when my crew and I were there this past weekend we noticed two pieces of gnarly metal poking out of the ground, right next to each other, in the center of the parking area. Beware! This stuff will surely cause a flat tire eventually. I should be going back to the bluffs in the next week or two and I'll take a sledge hammer to flatten this stuff. If someone gets there first and fixes this problem please post about it.

Oh! Hats off to the trail crew and the recent work they have done. Amazing! Apr 6, 2017
Patrick Rose
St. Louis, MO
Patrick Rose   St. Louis, MO
The trail back to Boy Scout Cove and Meadow looks great. Big thanks to the ICA and all the volunteers that made this happen. I noticed there are two new bolted routes in Boy Scout Cove and another easier bolted route on the far right of Meadow, any word on route names/grades? Apr 23, 2017
Tyler Metheney
St Louis
Tyler Metheney   St Louis
Patrick if you look in the recent photos it gives the details on the new routes.

Cheers Apr 24, 2017
I’m headed down to climb end of March, Any recommendations on places to stay? We usually camp but we will only be there for the weekend and since its still March and weather may be schechy a hotel with a pool wouldn’t suck. Thanks! Feb 25, 2018
There is nothing really close that i'm aware of with a pool other than the Pere Marquette Lodge itself. I stayed there a long time ago and it was nice, but can't speak for now. Feb 26, 2018
Patrick Rose
St. Louis, MO
Patrick Rose   St. Louis, MO
The lodge is nice, there are also a few places to stay in Grafton but probably no pool. Closest chain hotel with a pool would be in Alton, figure 20-30 minute drive depending on where you stay. Feb 27, 2018
Thanks for the comments. We ended up renting a cabin at the SP campground for a night, It was clean and super convienant. Spent the second night at the Fairfield inn in Pontoon beach, Also super new and clean. Great hot tub and pool. Climbing area was perfect for the first trip of our season. Thanks ICA for all the efforts here. Mar 24, 2018
Any sport multi pitch? Seems like there are a few trad and a few trad+bolted, and the pitches are in the description, but these aren't categorized as multipitch in the route finder on MP. I don't have trad gear yet, so can anything be multi pitched with just draws and a few cordalette? Apr 20, 2018

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