Elevation: 671 ft
GPS: 38.971, -90.488 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 125,597 total · 2,757/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Oct 17, 2016 with improvements by Lisa Luedtke "Lage"
Admins: Dave Hug
Access Issue: PLEASE STAY ON TRAIL!!! Details

Description

The Illinois Climbers Association is proud to present Illinois' newest rock climbing destination, Pere Marquette State Park. Located an hour from St. Louis just outside the lively town of Grafton, Pere Marquette offers highly featured limestone formations great for climbing. Since early 2015 the ICA has been working with the Illinois Department of Natural Resources to gain their blessing for this project, which includes new trails, landscaping with natural rock steps, and both sport routes and top-anchors for traditional leads. This new climbing area will ultimately have over 60 climbing routes.

Getting There

There is not an official address for the climbing area, but if you use the gps coordinates, your phone (or whatever device you use) will be able to guide you to the trail to access the climbing area. 

GPS Coordinates
38.969548, -90.488101


Also, make sure to check the map function built into the website/app to gain a better idea of where the climbing area is. 

Area Ethics

This is a brand new rock climbing site and it needs your help to protect and conserve the area. Always keep in mind that developing this site was a tall order and required countless labor hours to create what we now have. Always take into consideration that not everything will be clean and you will find holds to be dirty from time to time. Please do your part to be a responsible climber and help to educate others in the suggested site ethics.

AREAS ETHICS:

-Please only use designated trails. We need your help to prevent erosion

-NEVER CLEAN HOLDS WITH A WIRE BRUSH! Limestone will eventually become polished, thus making it much harder/slicker to climb. If holds are dirty please only use Nylon or Horse/Board Hair Brushes to clean and remove dirt from holds.

-Do your best to abide by Leave No Trace Ethics

-Do not top rope from trees! It is extremely dangerous and has a good chance of knocking rocks free and onto your party

The Illinois Climbers Association has spent a lot of time and resources to create and give this area to the public. Please do your part to help them out and conserve this area for others.

Please Note

This area is IN PROGRESS. All climbing information will be added as soon as it is developed. As per the Site Superintendent, no route development (via bolt placement) is to be done without the presence of the Illinois Climbers Association.

Resources

[[Illinois Climbers Association]]ilclimbers.org
Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a charitable organization representing the climbers of Illinois. We are dedicated to preserving climbing and bouldering access in Illinois through education, conservation, and cooperation.

Mission

The Illinois Climbers Association is a 501(c)3 charitable organization created to:

  1. Promote and support conservation and preservation of both rock climbing and bouldering areas, and their respective natural resources in Illinois
  2. Encourage optimal recreational use of Illinois outdoor climbing resources through land stewardship education and by facilitating cooperation between climbers, private land owners, and public land managers
  3. Encourage and promote the development of policies and practices that will preserve climbing and bouldering areas in Illinois

HELP THE ICA BOLT NEW ROUTES AT PERE MARQUETTE! 
The ICA was instrumental in acquiring access to the climbing at PERE MARQUETTE. If you have any questions, comments or concerns feel free to contact them.

**PLEASE DONATE**
Click HERE to donate towards the Illinois Climber Association's bolting cause.

Importance/Significance of Pere Marquette

This is the first time the Illinois Department of Natural Resources has reached out to the Illinois Climbers Association to develop a climbing area in one of it's state parks. Pere Marquette State Park is also the first Midwestern crag to be solely equipped with titanium fixed safety anchors. British-based Titan Climbing company's titanium "Eterna" bolts have been chosen for this project for longevity and high quality.

Come celebrate the ICA's huge achievement with the IDNR and enjoy a day of great limestone climbing!

Camping

Pere Marquette State Park has a nice campground located about 4 miles down the road right next to the visitors center. The park has some nice RV camping spots with electricity and a nice shower house, in addition, there is a primitive tent area located adjacent and separated from the RV area to help create separation. For more information and to reserve, Click Here The park also has a 1930's style CCC built lodge with nice accomodations as well. For more information Click Here

Special Thanks

A huge Kudos needs to be made to the volunteers who have donated so much to this project.

-The Friends of Pere Marquette! They graciously donated $5,000 for the purchase of high quality Titanium bolts. Without them, this project would have never happened.
-Ryan Richardson, former board member of the ICA, deserves credit at the one who got the ball rolling on the project. While spending time at Principia College, he and their club began cleaning up the faces, removing vegetation, and removing loose blocks from the wall. Thanks for your personal investment in the project.

-Bill Weishaar, huge proponent of the project. His contributions have been over the top and his investments include creating the switchback with stairs at the Lily Wall, helping to place equalized chains on many anchors, and helping to clean up/establish new routes in Boy Scout Cove, Meadow Slab, Ryan's Balcony, and Lily Wall

-Dan Rapp & Doug Rothe, both of which were also huge proponents for the project. They spent countless hours battling the heat and summer mosquito's to develop trails, remove invasive vegetation, and developing routes. Areas they helped create/develop include the Lily Wall, Lucky Strike Pillar, Meadow Slab, and Boy Scout Cove.

-Eric Ulner, former board member of the ICA, deserves credit and was incredibly helpful with negotiating with the IDNR to gain access to the climbing area.

-To the rest, thank you for your continued help and involvement in the site, we could have not done this without you.

Why Titanium?

Pere Marquette climbing development is an important project for the state of Illinois. Due to its importance, the Illinois Climbers Association decided to use the best quality materials to bolt with. Since Titan Climbing is the only certified Titanium manufacturer, they were the clear choice. The lasting effect of Titanium will only been seen over time, and the hope is for the bolts to last generations.

A quick excerpt from Titan Climbing about the power of Titanium:

(Angele Sjong, PhD was commissioned to carry out an accelerated corrosion test using one of our titanium bolts and a 316 stainless steel hanger (the test was an ASTM G36 boiling magnesium chloride test). The stainless steel hanger cracked in less than 4 ½ hours, whilst the titanium bolt was still going strong after the full 28 days of the test’s duration. In fact Sjong concluded that the titanium bolt had remained completely unaffected. Sjong added “There is an enormous difference between these two materials. You cannot even compare the corrosion resistance of titanium and steel”)

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pere Marquette State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 23
Spicy Guacamole
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Joeys Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Dan's Dihedral
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
The Ring Neck
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
River Nights & Flashlights
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Catfish & Bottlenecks
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
The Tallest Man
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 27
Piasa Pusher
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Riverboat Gambler
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 27
Mississippi Side Step
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Hespen Arete
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Dietsche Legacy Ladder
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Fine Line
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
The Father's Gift
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Where Eagles Dare
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spicy Guacamole F: Tombstone
 23
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Joeys Route I: Meadow Slab
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Dan's Dihedral A: Lily Wall
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Ring Neck A: Lily Wall
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
River Nights & Flashlights F: Tombstone
 26
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Catfish & Bottlenecks B: Lucky Strike Pillar
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Tallest Man A: Lily Wall
 26
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Piasa Pusher B: Lucky Strike Pillar
 27
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Riverboat Gambler I: Meadow Slab
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mississippi Side Step I: Meadow Slab
 27
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hespen Arete F: Tombstone
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dietsche Legacy Ladder A: Lily Wall
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Fine Line F: Tombstone
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Father's Gift E: Ryan's Balcony
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Where Eagles Dare H: Eagle Wall
 3
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Pere Marquette State Park »

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