South-facing, decent quality limestone, lakeside bluffs. Sun all day, but usually windy. On good weekends, you may see 2 or 3 other parties.
Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging sport routes, though there are a few exceptions (trad, steep). Most require a 50 meter rope, but a 60 is necessary for the super sweet Tigerbill. Since access is from the top, toproping is also an option on most climbs.
Check out Missouri Limestone Select, by Sean Burns.
These are the areas, from west to east, or left to right as seen from the water:
The Far Side The Washboard Area Funhouse Gully Black Snake Area Walrus Ledge Weenie Buttress
From Kansas City, take 71 south to South 7, going left at the top of the ramp. In Clinton, take a left near the Wal-Mart, to stay on 7. After going over a long bridge over the Lake Truman, take a left on SW 621. Take a left a the stop sign by the dam. Then take the first left and park off the road near the gate. Remember not to block the gate or your car will be towed.
From the gate, follow the gravel road going left on the trail on the left side just over the hill. Take the next trail on the right, usually marked by a cairn. Once on this trail, just follow it to the top of the cliffs. Once at the cliffs, you can rappel to the bottom or there are two gullies, one to the left/east and one farther down to the right/west, that you can descend.
Probably my favorite route in Missouri!After clipping the first bolt, climb the mini roof dihedral up and left to a ledge. Then head up and a little right on face climbing. Some of this section is not very good quality rock, but it's ok. Aim for the base of the clean dihedral/roof about 50 feet up. There, pull left into the dihedral/roof. After getting up a little, head back right and up to the anchors on a ledge. See note in pro section about descent and cleaning. Most of the climb has g...[more]Browse More Classics in MO
The Access Fund would be a great resource for information in this matter.
As I understand it, there is a certain right-of-way around all major waterways in MO that are under the jurisdiction of the Corps of Engineers, and they have always been accepting of climbing. Last I heard, they 'owned' the actual Warsaw crags.
The approach has always been owned by the golf course and they have always been accepting of us, especially those who didnt block the old gate and that were out of their parking lot by the time the gates closed at sunset.
My worry in this is that climbers have become too intrusive on the course now that the work has been done in the last few years. It would be great if we had some liasons or the Access Fund talk with the course and find a new way that we could discreetly access the crags. I remember a few years ago making a new trail for just this reason, but perhaps it has become too intrusive too. I suppose if the Corps still owns the right-of-way around the water, one could just hike from one end of the bridge in the meantime.
I spoke to Mac Vorce today at warsaw parks and rec. He is currently cutting a new corridor/trail from the driving range to the top of the climbing area and will be installing signs stating that this trail leads to the climbing area and is also available for general hiking use. It will also read that the gates to the golf course still close at dusk, so no overnight parking is allowed. At some point in the future the golf course may develop another nine holes where the driving range and access trail are. If and when that happens climbers will be given a new access point. Warsaw is far from closed! The City of Warsaw, the director of Parks and Rec and the Manager of the golf course are all very excited to have visitors coming to that area do climb, bike, fish, hike, camp, and spend money at local businesses. I have spoken to them all over the phone and will be meeting with Mac in person in the near future to discuss the plans for a overhaul of anchors at Warsaw. This is very exciting to have not only the Corp of Engineers, but the city on board to keep Warsaw climbing at its' best.
Those of us from the Columbia Area, visiting Truman Lake (more specificly the Warsaw Cliff near the golfing area) have parked on the side of the road and position completely outside of the golf area entrance gate. I personally have never had an issue come up about access over the past 20 years, only parking near the golf store ridge trail gate.
My advice is to not park in the golf area, period.
What a great winter climbing area. Access it by boat if all else fails.
Is there anyone up to work these this summer? I'll be home for a few months and want to work these and see if there are many more new routes to set. Also is it still open? I see that the golf course made Moboy56 leave.