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Elevation: 636 ft
GPS: 37.96784, -90.53457
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 121,029 total · 1,311/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Sep 16, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Nick Richards

Description Suggest change

Welcome to short walls, sharp holds, and a boulder problem to begin every route. Climbing here is not a gimme.

The park is a good year round destination for climbing. It's shady in the summer, and if you get too hot, you can take a dip and the cool flowing Big River. This is also a great winter destination due to its South Western facing aspect. Even on some of the coldest days, if the sun is out, your guns are out.

Due to the small number of routes, it is unlikely you will run into other climbers.

Limestone is many areas around St. Louis can be of extremely poor quality, but at the park that is not the case. Upon arrival, hike up the steep trail and you will meet a bolted wall of extremely high quality rock. This is the first area. From here, head left, down the bluff line and there are there is one separate area with bolted routes you will find. The farthest area has three bolted routes with bullet-hard rock and one great looking trad climb up a dihedral.

Getting There Suggest change

Refer to the map

Main Bluff

Suggest change
The cliff line is situated just north of the Main Bluff parking area, toilets, and flat grass field, found just before crossing the car bridge.

139 Total Climbs

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Location: EM: St. Francois State Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at EM: St. Francois State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 4
Prophetic Dreams
Boulder
V3 6A
 5
Zoned out
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 13
All That Glitters
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 16
Canary
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 9
Inconceivable
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 4
Don't Come A'knocking
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 5
False Awakening
Boulder
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 38
Pump Me Up
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Rubens Range
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 23
Onlooker
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 23
Little Trad Direct
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Little Trad
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Hittin the Vein
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Tre France'
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
Ottomania
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Prophetic Dreams B: Park Boulders > E Natural Trail > Sweet Dreams Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Zoned out B: Park Boulders > E Natural Trail > Sweet Dreams Boulder
 5
V3 6A Boulder
All That Glitters B: Park Boulders > … > E Loop Main Bou… > Glitter Area
 13
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Canary B: Park Boulders > Mooner's Hollow… > Song Bird Roof
 16
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Inconceivable B: Park Boulders > Main Bluff Boul… > Princess Bride boulders
 9
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Don't Come A'knocking B: Park Boulders > E Bluff Bouldering > Sunset Boulder
 4
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
False Awakening B: Park Boulders > E Natural Trail > Sweet Dreams Boulder
 5
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Pump Me Up A: Main Bluff > D: Thurmond Slab
 38
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Rubens Range A: Main Bluff > D: Thurmond Slab
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Onlooker A: Main Bluff > B: Tre France Wall
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Little Trad Direct A: Main Bluff > B: Tre France Wall
 23
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Little Trad A: Main Bluff > B: Tre France Wall
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hittin the Vein A: Main Bluff > C: Jam Wall
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tre France' A: Main Bluff > B: Tre France Wall
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ottomania A: Main Bluff > C: Jam Wall
 13
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in EM: St. Francois State Park »

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