Elevation: 636 ft
GPS: 37.968, -90.535 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 55,953 total · 1,146/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Sep 16, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

Description

Welcome to short walls, sharp holds, and a boulder problem to begin every route. Climbing here is not a gimme.

The park is a good year round destination for climbing. It's shady in the summer, and if you get too hot, you can take a dip and the cool flowing Big River. This is also a great winter destination due to its South Western facing aspect. Even on some of the coldest days, if the sun is out, your guns are out.

Due to the small number of routes, it is unlikely you will run into other climbers.

Limestone is many areas around St. Louis can be of extremely poor quality, but at the park that is not the case. Upon arrival, hike up the steep trail and you will meet a bolted wall of extremely high quality rock. This is the first area. From here, head left, down the bluff line and there are there is one separate area with bolted routes you will find. The farthest area has three bolted routes with bullet-hard rock and one great looking trad climb up a dihedral.

Getting There

Refer to the map

Main Bluff

The cliff line is situated just north of the Main Bluff parking area, toilets, and flat grass field, found just before crossing the car bridge.

77 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at EM: St. Francois State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1-2 5
 5
Swamp Arete
Boulder
V2 5+
 3
R.O.U.Ss
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 7
Canary
Boulder
V4 6B
 7
All That Glitters
Boulder
V4 6B
 3
Shimmer
Boulder
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Pump Me Up
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Rubens Range
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Chockstone
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 18
Onlooker
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Little Trad Direct
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 15
Little Trad
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Recovery
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Hittin the Vein
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Tre France'
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
Ottomania
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Swamp Arete B: Park Boulders > Twins
 5
V1-2 5 Boulder
R.O.U.Ss B: Park Boulders > Main Bluff Boul… > Princess Bride boulders
 3
V2 5+ Boulder
Canary B: Park Boulders > Mooner's Hollow… > Song Bird Roof
 7
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
All That Glitters B: Park Boulders > Mooner's Hollow E Loo…
 7
V4 6B Boulder
Shimmer B: Park Boulders > Mooner's Hollow E Loo…
 3
V4 6B Boulder
Pump Me Up A: Main Bluff > D: Thurmond Slab
 28
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Rubens Range A: Main Bluff > D: Thurmond Slab
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chockstone A: Main Bluff > B: Tre France Wall
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Onlooker A: Main Bluff > B: Tre France Wall
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Little Trad Direct A: Main Bluff > B: Tre France Wall
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Little Trad A: Main Bluff > B: Tre France Wall
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Recovery A: Main Bluff > A: Overlook Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hittin the Vein A: Main Bluff > C: Jam Wall
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tre France' A: Main Bluff > B: Tre France Wall
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ottomania A: Main Bluff > C: Jam Wall
 9
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in EM: St. Francois State Park »

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