Elevation: 636 ft
GPS: 37.968, -90.535 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,623 total · 702/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Sep 16, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

Description

Welcome to short walls, sharp holds, and a boulder problem to begin every route. Climbing here is not a gimme.

The park is a good year round destination for climbing. It's shady in the summer, and if you get too hot, you can take a dip and the cool flowing Big River. This is also a great winter destination due to its South Western facing aspect. Even on some of the coldest days, if the sun is out, your guns are out.

Due to the small number of routes, it is unlikely you will run into other climbers.

Limestone is many areas around St. Louis can be of extremely poor quality, but at the park that is not the case. Upon arrival, hike up the steep trail and you will meet a bolted wall of extremely high quality rock. This is the first area. From here, head left, down the bluff line and there are there is one separate area with bolted routes you will find. The farthest area has three bolted routes with bullet-hard rock and one great looking trad climb up a dihedral.

Getting There

Refer to the map

50 Total Climbs

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Location: EM: St. Francois State Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at EM: St. Francois State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3-4 6A+
 4
All That Glitters
Boulder
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Pump Me Up
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Rubens Range
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Heavy Bells
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Chockstone
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Traditional Invisibility
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 14
Onlooker
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Little Trad Direct
Sport, TR
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 3
Wayward Traveler
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Little Trad
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Hittin the Vein
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 9
Tre France'
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Torn Tips
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Ottomania
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
All That Glitters E: Bouldering > Mooner's Hollow E Loo…
 4
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Pump Me Up D: Thurmond Slab
 20
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Rubens Range D: Thurmond Slab
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Heavy Bells C: Jam Wall
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chockstone B: Tre France Wall
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Traditional Invisibility B: Tre France Wall
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Onlooker B: Tre France Wall
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Little Trad Direct B: Tre France Wall
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Wayward Traveler C: Jam Wall
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Sport
Little Trad B: Tre France Wall
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hittin the Vein C: Jam Wall
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tre France' B: Tre France Wall
 9
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Torn Tips D: Thurmond Slab
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Ottomania C: Jam Wall
 7
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in EM: St. Francois State Park »

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Photos

Pat0  
Climbed here on 2/11/2017.

Upon arrival the park ranger made us drive up to the office to write our names down on a sheet of paper as a "climbing permit". He insisted that the hardware on all routes were 40+ years old and that the area was top-rope only.

When we checked things out, all of the routes looked newly bolted with Petzel bolts/hangers. Some routes had new-looking glue-ins. The anchors were very solid and looked brand new. Half-way up one route we found one of the discarded old-school hangers that the ranger had wanted us to avoid.

It would be nice to know who re-bolted this area (and when) so that we can extend our gratitude!

The ranger also told us that because the area is small he would prevent other climbers from visiting the area while we were climbing. The area has four walls with multiple routes on each. There is a lot of room here for multiple climbing groups.. disregard his advice entirely before checking out the wall. As a result of the park ranger's misinformed opinion on the status and capacity of the crag, I'm reluctant to suggest that you visit the park office before heading to the area. Tread lightly.

As for the routes, almost all feature boulder-style starts up to the second bolt with sharp rock. The climbs are relatively short (< 6 draws). There are some hard climbs here. The grades seem accurate, if not sometimes sandbagged.

It's great to have an in-development place like this close to St. Louis. Enjoy! Feb 12, 2017
Anyone been here recently? planning on heading there Saturday and would feel better if I had some beta going in Jun 29, 2018
Does anyone have any info on the boulders in the Princess Bride area? There's a nice overhung block to the left end of the area, just before it turns into a cliff face, and there's a few easy problems and a few solid ones. I'm reluctant to put anything up, though, in case these problems are already established. Jan 9, 2019
Dave Hug
Carbondale, Illinois
Dave Hug   Carbondale, Illinois  
Jacob, feel free to post any boulder problems or routes. Jan 9, 2019