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Am. Pat and Jack Pinnacle

California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Lower Merced River Ca…
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Description

Pat and Jack is an excellent crag that is often bypassed for the more popular crags nearby, but it hosts a number of superb routes that are well worth the short walk. This is a steep wall, that has a number of knobs along it which allows the splitter cracks to be done at slightly more moderate grades. Some pitches to try include Sherrie's crack, Knob Job and the Tube. Similar weather as for Cookie Cliff with lots of sun for fall / winter climbing.

Getting There

Find a parking area off Hwy 140, west of the Cascade Creek bridge and park on the south side of the road. Cross 140 and find a climbers trail that heads directly up the hill. The trail will lead to Knuckleheads, and Knob Job.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
● Gilligan's Chicken
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● Chicken Fever
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 357
● Sherrie's Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 300
● Nurdle
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
● Jack Pinnacle, Left
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 268
● The Super Slacker Highway
Trad 8 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
● Pat Pinnacle
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 398
● Knob Job
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 14
● G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano)
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 3
● Book 'em Dano
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
● G-Man
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
● Trough of Justice
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 165
● Knuckleheads
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
● People's Court
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 27
● Desperado
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
● Desp-arete
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 71
● Desperate Straights
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 36
● Cat's Squirrel
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 1
● Cat's Squirrel p2
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 6
● Pussy Paws
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
● Nine Lives
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
● Gold Chains
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Antifa Connection
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
 1
● Black Heads
Trad, Aid
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 53
● Skinheads
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 18
● Headstrong
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
● Underclingon
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 121
● The Tube
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
● My-Toe-Sis
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 33
● Polymastia
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
● Gay Bob's to extension
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 103
● Babble On
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 168
● Boneheads
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 32
● Rocky Horror Show
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
● Mantel Illness
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 110
● Makayla's Climb
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
● Wart Hog
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 1
● The Wedge
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 45
● More Mental than Mantel
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 152
● Suds
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 82
● Kiddie Corner
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Gilligan's Chicken
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
● Chicken Fever
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Sherrie's Crack
 357
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Nurdle
 300
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Jack Pinnacle, Left
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
● The Super Slacker Highway
 268
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
● Pat Pinnacle
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
● Knob Job
 398
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● G-Man Extension (not Book'e…
 14
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Book 'em Dano
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
● G-Man
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
● Trough of Justice
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Knuckleheads
 165
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● People's Court
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Desperado
 27
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Desp-arete
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Desperate Straights
 71
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Cat's Squirrel
 36
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● Cat's Squirrel p2
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
● Pussy Paws
 6
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
● Nine Lives
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
● Gold Chains
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Antifa Connection
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Black Heads
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 Trad, Aid
● Skinheads
 53
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Headstrong
 18
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Underclingon
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● The Tube
 121
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● My-Toe-Sis
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
● Polymastia
 33
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Gay Bob's to extension
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Babble On
 103
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Boneheads
 168
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Rocky Horror Show
 32
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● Mantel Illness
 40
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Makayla's Climb
 110
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● Wart Hog
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● The Wedge
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
● More Mental than Mantel
 45
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Suds
 152
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Kiddie Corner
 82
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo to Right side of Pat&Jack Pinnacle
[Hide Photo] Topo to Right side of Pat&Jack Pinnacle
To set a toprope on More mental than mantel, suds, or kiddie corner. Once you're at the Manzanita there's a ledge to climbers left. That's where you'll find the bolts. More mental than mantle will have bolts on a right facing corner.
[Hide Photo] To set a toprope on More mental than mantel, suds, or kiddie corner. Once you're at the Manzanita there's a ledge to climbers left. That's where you'll find the bolts. More mental than mantle…
To set a toprope on More mental than mantle, suds, or kiddie corner. Once you're on the ramp up, aim for this Manzanita.
[Hide Photo] To set a toprope on More mental than mantle, suds, or kiddie corner. Once you're on the ramp up, aim for this Manzanita.
For those who want to set a toprope on More mental than mantle, suds, or kiddie corner. DON'T. It's a hassle and much easier to lead suds. But if you're alone like me, then walk along the trail to climbers right til it starts to slope up.
[Hide Photo] For those who want to set a toprope on More mental than mantle, suds, or kiddie corner. DON'T. It's a hassle and much easier to lead suds. But if you're alone like me, then walk along the trail…
Looking down the valley from pitch 1 of Makayla's Climb. Beautiful!
[Hide Photo] Looking down the valley from pitch 1 of Makayla's Climb. Beautiful!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bryan G
June Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] I have found Pat and Jack to be one of the most reliable winter crags in Yosemite. The day after a storm, when every crack at the Cookie is seeping water, most routes at Pat and Jack will already be dry. Sep 16, 2011
Bolting Karen
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Anybody have info on the climbs between desperado and nine lives? Bolted line to the left of nine lives felt hard and a bit dirty, is it new? The thin splitter just right of the chimney and desperado looks awesome, anybody done it? Jan 31, 2015
Bryan G
June Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] The tips crack to the right of Desperate Straights (the chimney flake) is called Cat's Squirrel. 5.12a to the first set of anchors (FA: Bill Price, Augie Klein, 1980), or 5.12b to the second set of anchors (FA: Dimitri Barton, Mike Hatchett, Dave Hatchett, Rick Lovelace, et al, 1989). Feb 6, 2015
Tie Rack
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Anyone know about the climb to the right of Suds? There were about 5 bolts leading up to a dihedral crack where I placed two pieces of pro and then mantled up to the next bolt and then a set of anchors off to the right by some dirt, and loose stuff. It was just left of the gully and my friends had to climb through the tree a bit. Anyone know any other info about this? Nov 5, 2015
Bryan G
June Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] You probably climbed Kiddie Corner (5.10a, FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, 2000s). Bolted face leading into a right-facing corner. Requires two ropes to rap unless you swing over to the left and make a second rap off the anchors for one of those short new sport routes. Nov 6, 2015