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Second Tier Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 7,384 ft |
| GPS: | 39.999, -105.412 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 123,620 total · 717/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update
Details
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
The Second Tier is home to most of Avalon's routes, and it's where you'll find the biggest crowds on a busy day. The base of many climbs here is badly eroding with lots of loose rock. It's a bad place to bring dogs, which knock rocks down on belayers below them.
This tier is complex and is split into various parts. See![]()
Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note: The depicted Northeast Face is also known as Crack Land. for details.
From left to right:
Tarot Wall - on the left side above the First Tier. Mostly 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes, including The Devil (11c), Lust (10c), The Tower (10a) and Wheel of Fortune (10a). Popular.
Three Dihedrals - Above and right of Tarot Wall. Only a few climbs here, including the popular Dominator (10b).
The Clipboard Area - just right of the Three Dihedrals area. Three quality routes: Chairman of the Board (11d), The Clipboard (11b), & Stigmata (10a).
The Middle Wall - right of the Clipboard Area. Has the classic Strange Science (11c) and Free Fall (12a), and the moderate slab routes Incline Club (7+) and Tomb of Sorrows (9). Popular.
The Wall of the Dead - above and right of the Middle Wall. Four routes, including Dead Can Dance (9) and Dead Again (10c).
This tier is complex and is split into various parts. See
From left to right:
Tarot Wall - on the left side above the First Tier. Mostly 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes, including The Devil (11c), Lust (10c), The Tower (10a) and Wheel of Fortune (10a). Popular.
Three Dihedrals - Above and right of Tarot Wall. Only a few climbs here, including the popular Dominator (10b).
The Clipboard Area - just right of the Three Dihedrals area. Three quality routes: Chairman of the Board (11d), The Clipboard (11b), & Stigmata (10a).
The Middle Wall - right of the Clipboard Area. Has the classic Strange Science (11c) and Free Fall (12a), and the moderate slab routes Incline Club (7+) and Tomb of Sorrows (9). Popular.
The Wall of the Dead - above and right of the Middle Wall. Four routes, including Dead Can Dance (9) and Dead Again (10c).
Getting There
Head up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt trail starts at the top of the talus. Very soon the trail splits: the left branch heads to Tarot Wall and Three Dihedrals; the right branch continues up the hill toward the Middle Wall, Clipboard, and Wall of the Dead. See each area for more detailed info.
You can also reach Tarot Wall by continuing up left past the First Tier; this is convenient if you started your day by climbing there.
You can also reach Tarot Wall by continuing up left past the First Tier; this is convenient if you started your day by climbing there.
Classic Climbing Routes at Second Tier
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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