Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The Second Tier is home to most of Avalon's routes, and it's where you'll find the biggest crowds on a busy day. The base of many climbs here is badly eroding with lots of loose rock. It's a bad place to bring dogs, which knock rocks down on belayers below them.

This tier is complex and is split into various parts. See
Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note: The depicted Northeast Face is also known as Crack Land. for details.

From left to right:

Tarot Wall - on the left side above the First Tier. Mostly 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes, including The Devil (11c), Lust (10c), The Tower (10a) and Wheel of Fortune (10a). Popular.

Three Dihedrals - Above and right of Tarot Wall. Only a few climbs here, including the popular Dominator (10b).

The Clipboard Area - just right of the Three Dihedrals area. Three quality routes: Chairman of the Board (11d), The Clipboard (11b), & Stigmata (10a).

The Middle Wall - right of the Clipboard Area. Has the classic Strange Science (11c) and Free Fall (12a), and the moderate slab routes Incline Club (7+) and Tomb of Sorrows (9). Popular.

The Wall of the Dead - above and right of the Middle Wall. Four routes, including Dead Can Dance (9) and Dead Again (10c).

Getting There

Head up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt trail starts at the top of the talus. Very soon the trail splits: the left branch heads to Tarot Wall and Three Dihedrals; the right branch continues up the hill toward the Middle Wall, Clipboard, and Wall of the Dead. See each area for more detailed info.

You can also reach Tarot Wall by continuing up left past the First Tier; this is convenient if you started your day by climbing there.

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Second Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 202
Incline Club
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 307
Dead Can Dance
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 188
Wheel of Fortune
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 329
The Tower
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 242
Dead Again
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 243
Dominator
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 414
Lust
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 172
Supernatural
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 151
The Clipboard
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 202
The Devil
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 322
Strange Science
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 101
Chairman of the Board
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 174
Free Fall
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 151
Ripcord
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 38
Fapanese Direct
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Incline Club Middle Wall
 202
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Dead Can Dance Wall of the Dead
 307
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Wheel of Fortune Tarot Wall
 188
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Tower Tarot Wall
 329
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dead Again Wall of the Dead
 242
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dominator Three Dihedrals
 243
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lust Tarot Wall
 414
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Supernatural Middle Wall
 172
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Clipboard Clipboard Area
 151
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Devil Tarot Wall
 202
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Strange Science Middle Wall
 322
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Chairman of the Board Clipboard Area
 101
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Free Fall Middle Wall
 174
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ripcord Middle Wall
 151
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fapanese Direct Tarot Wall
 38
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Second Tier »

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