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Routes in Middle Wall

Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Raoul Rossiter, 2000
Page Views: 4,886 total, 26/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


162 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start just left of Strange Science on a platform below a huge boulder.

Climb a stepped face, go left to a corner, layback up to a ledge, and fire up a steep headwall.

Excellent climb with several hard moves.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is 85' long.
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10
Great all-gear route! PG-13 with a set or two of Aliens and small offset cams. I took the contrived but fun indirect start next to the bolts, but you could also use a dirty direct start in a lichen-covered corner just to the left. May 16, 2017
Jon H
MD/DC
 
Jon H   MD/DC
 
Hands down, the best route at Middle Tier. Three dimensional climbing, spicy runouts, cool transitions as you work around the arete... this route has it all. Way better, IMHO, than Strange Science, Riptide, or Freefall. Jul 21, 2013
Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Christina kalb   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I didn't use any additional gear. The guidebook says to bring a few small cams. They may be useful between bolts 3 and 4 and 4 and 5 if you are shorter. For me, a fall before clipping bolt 4 would have been a hard swing into the wall below, and I couldn't reach bolt 5 from the ledge. I also had difficulty reaching some of the holds in bolts 6 to 7 section. I suspect those who are shorter are the ones who rate the climb 11. If you are taller, it will seem easier. Jun 3, 2013
This is a great route. I found the bottom three bolts to be thought provoking and balance intensive; while the top is powerful for an onsight.
As far as the grade, I'd say it's .11a if Free Willie is, which I found to be considerably less difficult. Sep 11, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
This climb is not to be missed. Interesting climbing the whole way, and while the bolted crack probably detracts from the climb, most people would just skip it rather than bring one piece of gear, so it seems justified. Interesting moves up top with insecure feet on steep terrain, but it's definitely all there. Jun 10, 2010
patrick kadel
  5.10b
patrick kadel  
  5.10b
I am short, Alien not needed. High left foot and and good crimp in the crack allows to go up, clip the bolt and lower back down to the restful stance. The move is secure and quicker than placing an Alien a foot below a bolt. Jul 14, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Good route with varied climbing. Even a little bit of finger crack underclinging. Not an 11 but still a worthwhile climb to do.

CL Sep 2, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
One of the best lines at the cliff! A TCU/Alien just below the 5th bolt is comforting if you're too short to make the clip from the ledge. May 26, 2007
ac
 
ac  
 
Young Doug...[Didn't] know the name when we did it. Thought it to be .10c/d-ish. Maybe my ape-index helps, but certainly there are no moves here that would be considered .11a..again, I must consider other benchmark routes at the grade. I am not a cutting-edge climber, but have 20+ years climbing in the Boulder area. I say that to lend some credentials to my stance on the grades. I would say this is a nice pitch, and well worth doing if you are up there..after all Boulder Canyon is a lot about quantity of routes in a day. Sep 23, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Pretty solid climbing and probably like most at the cliff in that it is over graded at least a tad. Nice climb though, with good rock and fun moves. A lot of variety in the holds and moves keeps it interesting. Could get pumpy if you spent a lot of time trying to figure it out. Jul 27, 2005
This route is awesome and a must-do if you're at the Avalon. I don't know why it wouldn't get at least 2 stars. There's 2 bolts that are not necessary, as gear will protect their moves but the climbing is awesome. Nov 8, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
I placed green and yellow Aliens between some of the bolts. When there are cracks I bring gear, even on sport climbs. (Explaining, not complaining, although a couple of the bolts are unnecessary.) Oct 25, 2003