Tarot Wall Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 7,331 ft | 2,234 m |
| GPS: |
39.999, -105.4122 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 63,908 total · 257/month | |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Description
Tarot Wall is the leftmost area on the Second Tier. Home to a number of good 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes, including The Devil (11c), Lust (10c), The Tower (10a), and Wheel of Fortune (10a). Earth Angel (12d) is a difficult testpiece that has seen very few ascents.
A fun new route, The Magician (9 or 10), climbs an arete at the left side of Tarot Wall.
L->R:
AB. Direct Start to The Magician, 10, 1p, 85', gear & bolts.
B. The Magician, 9 or 10, 1p, 80', gear & bolts. Cracks, arete, face, roof.
C. Ah Ya Punter, 11-, 1p, gear. LFD & roof.
D. Earth Angel, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts. Face, roof, and arete on left.
DE. Angel's Wanks, 12-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
E. Fapanese Direct, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
F. The Constant Gardener, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. The Devil, 11, 1p, 70', bolts. Steep, bulging face.
H. Lust, 10, 1p, 90', bolts, steep face.
I. The Fool, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Awkward at start.
J. The Tower, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts. Long, varied, enjoyable.
K. The Hermit, 12, 1p, 100', gear.
L. S.I.N., 10, 1p, 90', gear.
M. Wheel of Fortune, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts. Corner, roof, steep face.
N. The Horse, 10+, 1p, 60', bolt & gear. Overhang to cracks.
O. The Hanged Man, 10, 1p, 50', bolts. Brief overhang to face.
On a short wall by the talus field approach:
P. Goat Arete, 10+, 1p, 45', gear.
Q. Goat F***ker, 12-, 25', bolts. Quartz dike.
Getting There
Climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt trail starts at the top of the talus. Continue up the trail a short distance until the trail splits; take the left branch to get to Tarot Wall. Follow the trail left around a shoulder to the road side of the crag. The first route you'll see is The Hanged Man at a low overhang with a bolt.
If you started your day climbing on the First Tier, you can continue up the path left from there and reach the left side of Tarot Wall, by the route Earth Angel.
Also on the left side of Tarot Wall is a trail heading downstream toward Solaris.
See the Beta Photo for details.
Classic Climbing Routes at Tarot Wall
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