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Routes in Tarot Wall

Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devil, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earth Angel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fapanese Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fool, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goat F***er S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanged Man, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horse, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lust S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magician, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S.I.N. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wheel of Fortune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, Jessica True 2001
Page Views: 1,729 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


81 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The Hanged Man is the rightmost climb on Tarot Wall. There is a low roof about 10' up. The Hanged Man climbs the roof about 10' left of the roof's right edge. This is about 10' right of The Horse.

This is a one-move climb, but not a one-move wonder. The crux is a not particularly interesting roof right off the ground. Maneuver under the roof on somewhat grungy rock to reach over and make the clip. Grab a good sidepull and pop for a jug. Very easy ledges lead to a couple of 8ish moves to the anchor.

Rossiter rated this 11a. I'm tempted to call it 10a, but I'll split the difference at 10c. If you're below a certain height, or if you insist on doing it statically, then it's harder.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. I used a green Alien to protect the first clip. Your can toprope the roof by walking in from the right to the 2nd bolt.

Photos

Eckhard
Denver, CO
 
Eckhard   Denver, CO
 
This climb is done at the second bolt, that's where the rap rings should have been, or it is a boulder option with a spotter. Feb 24, 2009
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
  5.10b
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
  5.10b
The first move is fun, not a bad route overall. 2 stars. I'm 5'11" and I was able to do the move semi-statically, expect more problems if you are shorter. Sep 21, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Climb it on gear. Double rack to #0.75 Camalot will suffice.

CL Jun 5, 2008
This route is really silly. The move at the bottom is ok, but this is one move, and it deposits you on a grassy ledge, which you then walk up a bit to some irrelevant upper moves. I really don't see why this was bolted.

Boulder the bottom move, it's not too high and the landing is fine. Oct 8, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
One awkward move to an easy upper climb. It isn't bad enough to 'bomb' but it isn't good enough to bother with either. There are better wastes of time around. I suppose if every other route around is full, you can justify doing this one... 40' doesn't take long at least! As well, my partner referred to this as a "trad climb with bolts on it." It would take gear just fine, but at least it's not a singular and obvious crack. Jul 23, 2005