Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Matt Fettbrod, fall 2002
Page Views: 1,864 total · 11/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 27, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

There is a route between the cut-off trail that goes left to the Tarot Wall and up on the Wall Of The Dead. It really isn't on the Tarot Wall. On the left, while hiking between the two, you can see 2 bolts going up past a vertical quartz dike to a ledge (obvious mantle) and a 2-bolt anchor. This climb is harder than it looks at first, but easier than it feels at first.

Two pumps and out is how the route goes. It has fun moves though. With a better landing, it could have been a classic boulder problem.

This route was installed and redpointed by Matt Fettbrod in the fall of 2002. The original name is Goat F***er - a reference to a local Italian baker's penchant for bestiality. The shortest route in Boulder Canyon?

Protection

2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
I pulled a brick-sized chunk up above the last (2nd) bolt. Doesn't look like there is much more that could come off though. Jun 27, 2007
Mingus  
Yikes, we did this last night after Free Fall and it felt substantially harder. Maybe I was just powered down by then but this felt like V5 at the time. May 29, 2009
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
.11d? Hardest one in Boulder Canyon. There's a scar where a flake pulled off. I wonder if that made a difference; I couldn't pull the move, felt harder than .12b. Jul 24, 2010
tbol
Front Range, CO.
  5.12c/d
tbol   Front Range, CO.
  5.12c/d
Matt told me a few key holds have broken off of this. I had to drag him out there to try the route, because he was convinced it was 11d. What a sandbag! I think it is solid upper 12. It is just as hard or harder than any of the other 12s at Avalon. One friend called it V8, but that is a little much. Not quite a 5.13. Oct 27, 2015