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Routes in Tarot Wall

Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devil, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earth Angel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fapanese Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fool, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goat F***er S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanged Man, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horse, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lust S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magician, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S.I.N. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wheel of Fortune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001
Page Views: 11,557 total, 67/month
Shared By: TBD on Oct 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


372 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The third bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start 15' right of the Devil at a face leading to an alcove.

Climb up the face to an alcove. Exit left and continue up a steep face. Work left and climb a slabby corner to the top.

An interesting variety of climbing. A long sustained line with several cruxes requiring very different techniques to succeed.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 60m rope required to rap or lower. There is a stray, hangerless bolt near the top.

Photos

Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
Mendoza, Argentina
  5.10b
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra   Mendoza, Argentina  
  5.10b
The lower section can be done with gear all the way till you reach the flared handcrack before the upper slab. Just take doubles from 0.4 to 0.75 and a few alpine draws. Gear is bomber! Aug 30, 2015
Matt Simon
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Simon   Boulder, CO
 
In my opinion, the definition of a classic sport route. It's long and sustained with great moves the whole way, though the real winning feature is how varied the climb is. From the face moves to the hand jams to the dihedral, it's pure goodness every step of the way.

Get on this.

Edit: Andrew, your draws were MIA, hope you got them back. Jun 22, 2014
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.10c/d
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.10c/d
Loved every second of this route. I don't think there's any 10d moves on it, but it's pretty sustained, and being pumped going into the 10a corner at the top means it's really not over until you clip the chains. For me, the crux was just after traversing left out of the alcove right of the bolt line. I thought this was a good bit harder than Marquis de Sade down below.

On another note, I clipped the chains right as some nasty lightning came in. In a rush to get off, I left two alpine draws in the chains. If you find them in good condition, they're yours, though I'll give someone $5 bucks and beer to return them Jun 5, 2014
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
I loved this route. Definitely a great, well-protected line perfect for anyone trying to boost their leading skills into the 5.11 realm.

It is an entertaining, engaging route. It doesn't just "go up" but makes you think: Solid laybacks, fun footwork, and pumpy sections make this one a favorite in my book.

Would call it a 5.10b/c relative to the other stuff in Avalon. Jul 5, 2010
Colin Kenneth
San Francisco, CA
5.10b
Colin Kenneth   San Francisco, CA
5.10b
really fun climb. It's REALLY not 10d. no way. I led it in flip flops with only 2 falls and I'm not that bad ass. Jul 22, 2009
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Hangerless (mistake?) bolt just short of the the anchors? Cool climb. 10d seems too hard and 4 stars seems to many. But, then again, I don't like cracks :). Could easily lose some bolts and be a mixed route, but, whatever. May 18, 2009
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Fun route, quite a variety of moves. Aug 3, 2007
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
  5.10b
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
  5.10b
I agree with Chad here. Climbing at the top is similar to the pin-ladder on Eldo's Yellow Spur. After I got back to the car, I kept saying "There's no WAY that's .10d!" By no means am I a ".10d climber" and I only hesitated once or twice on this route. I'd call it a .10b I think. If you're not a .10d climber, I wouldn't be afraid of this route. Many many bolts and the cruxes aren't that hard. At the top, follow the bolt line to the rings, don't wander right where the chalked ledges are.~Wm Jun 22, 2005
Mark Ferguson
  5.10a
Mark Ferguson  
  5.10a
Good but not 10d. Aug 1, 2004
Scott Hudson
  5.10d
Scott Hudson  
  5.10d
This is also my favorite line at Avalon. Thanks to Ron for the beta that helped me find this one. Climbed this between rain squalls on 7/5/04. The climbing is interesting and varied. It seems possible that you could climb this with half the bolts or perhaps without any bolts at all given the abundant cracks on the route. Jul 6, 2004
TBD
 
TBD  
 
Ron, I always find it interesting that people can have such different experiences on routes, really one of the values of this site. I certainly thought this route was harder than Marquis de Sade, you found the opposite to be true. Something came to mind after climbing in Eldo yesterday, this route would probably compare to 9+ there. Oct 27, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
My favorite route at Avalon. Climb up into a little alcove, then make an exciting traverse left onto the face. Work up the steep face (10b/c) and climb a corner/slab (10a) to the anchors. The route is 90' long. Oct 25, 2003