Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, Christine Damiano 2001
Page Views: 443 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


58 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The fourth bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start just left of a low roof jutting out over the trail.

Climb into a left-facing corner (hard) and then left and into another left-facing corner (crux). Easier climbing leads up a narrow face using the arĂȘte on the left. At the last move I used a crack on the right.

10d seems about right by Boulder sport ratings. It took many up and downs before I figured out the move into the second corner. It's insecure, and there are several options.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Awkward climbing; my least favorite route on Tarot Wall.

The ledge at the start is very narrow with a steep drop-off; consider anchoring the belayer to the nearby tree. Oct 24, 2003
Yeah, sort of awkward and grungy down low... some nicer moves up above, though still a bit grungy up there, too. Aug 1, 2005
I thought this was a very enjoyable climb... somewhat similar to Wheel of Fortune (two climbs to the right), though with a slightly more bouldery start.

Agree with Ron that the belay area is very narrow. If the leader fails on the first clip, leader and belayer can both tumble down to the creek. Consider anchoring for sure. Aug 17, 2005
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
Two more routes have gone in and this is now the 6th bolted line from the left as you're looking at the second tier.
BA Jul 17, 2008
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10b/c
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10b/c
I think this route is OK. The low crux is tricky and a little awkward, but the rest of the climb is nice. It's a good warm-up once you know the crux beta. Jul 26, 2013