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Routes in Tarot Wall

Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devil, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earth Angel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fapanese Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fool, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goat F***er S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanged Man, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horse, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lust S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magician, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S.I.N. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wheel of Fortune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Richard Rossiter and Jessica True, 2001
Page Views: 5,321 total, 31/month
Shared By: TBD on Oct 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The second bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start at a tree stump about 30' right of Earth Angel.

Ascend a steep face on thin holds. It has sustained difficulty after a rest by the third bolt. The crux comes at a bulge above a horizontal crack about halfway up. Near the top, you can move right then back up left for the easiest line, or climb straight up past the last bolt for a harder variation.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11c
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11c
^^^^ I noticed the bolts seemed like they needed love when I was up there a month ago, so awesome Greg, thanks. I will try and remember to dump some change in the ASCA bucket when I get a chance. Sep 23, 2017
The first bolt and the seventh bolt were spinning bolts (not just spinning hangers which is no big deal - the actual bolt was spinning). Both hangers were a bit out from the rock too.

Replaced both of those today with glue-ins, the first with a large Twisted Leg bolt (316 ss), the seventh with a Fixe Hely (Duplex 2304 stainless steel aka PLX). I managed to pull the first bolt cleanly and re-use the hole, but the seventh bolt broke at the neck (after a lot of work), so a new hole was needed (the old hole was patched).

The right bolt at the anchor also spins if you try to tighten it with a wrench, but it doesn't move at all when weighted straight out, and considering how difficult it was to remove the spinning pro bolts, I can't imagine any scenario where the anchor bolt could fail. Sep 22, 2017
As with every sport route I've led, so long as I'm within arms length of the bolts, then I am on route. May 26, 2013
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11a
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11a
Worrying about what's "on" or "off" is only going to tarnish the quality of this route, just pick the line that you like best and fire away! Searching out the easiest holds puts the grade on the easy side of 11 for sure. Jul 19, 2012
Wilky
Boulder, CO
Wilky   Boulder, CO
I left a pair of cracked Ray Bans at the bottom of this route on Saturday the 18th of June, 2011. I would really appreciate if they found their way back to me. Thank you so much. My email is christopher.wilkinson@colorado.edu Jun 18, 2011
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Solid 11b or easy 11c IMHO. Previous comments about bailing right towards the gully at the flaring crack are dead-on. There are also some sidepulls left just above the horizontal sloper/crack which I'd say need to be off-route for it to be 11b. With a little wandering left and right, it's still probably 10c or 10d.

Fantastic climb overall. Sustained with interesting moves. Bolting is very safe and well done. May 18, 2009
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
I made the mistake of warming up on this. We didn't know what it was, but it looked fun. Talk about a flash pump! May 17, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Really fun route with good movement and good bolting. Agree it's more like 11b/c (and I went pretty much straight up at the end). Get on it! Jun 5, 2008
Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.11c
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.11c
Perhaps the nicest route we climbed today! Felt like 5.11b/c, not as hard as Chairman of the Board. Jul 16, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
When I got on this I thought I was warming up on a 10d and looked at the top move and balked- I cheated right by grabbing an edge around the corner. Then I came down and did it direct and decided that it was pretty doable that way too, but the feet are somewhat poor. I think it was easy 5.11 (11a or 11b) if done directly through the flared crack, moderate 5.10 (10b or 10c) if cheating to the right up top. Regardless, fun and pumpy. Jun 22, 2005
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
Look for a 6" tall, WAY overused 'cheater-stump' at the base of this climb. For .11d, it seems reasonable that the line runs straight through the flared crack at the top (look at Ron Olsen's third photo below), and not right then back left to the rings. Much easier to bypass the would-be crux if you do go right at the flared crack, then back left again at the rings.~Wm Jun 22, 2005