Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, Erik Volk, Chris Berg, 2001
Page Views: 9,017 total · 49/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


328 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The fifth bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start 20' right of The Fool and 15' left of Wheel of Fortune, at a face leading to a big roof.

Climb the moderate face with a couple of harder moves to the left edge of the big roof above. Pull left around the roof to a ledge then step back right above the roof onto a knobby face. Enter the right-facing corner above. At its top exit left and up easy climbing to the anchor.

Rossiter rates this 10a, but I felt it was significantly easier than its neighbor Wheel of Fortune, also rated 10a by Rossiter. There were no specific crux moves.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring a few longer runners for the bolts just below the roof. 60m rope required to rap or lower.

This should have been left as a trad climb. There is good and easily-placed gear at every bolt except for the third bolt.
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
This is a fun route and one of the best of its grade at Avalon. Bring a 60m rope; the route is 100' long. If you lower, be aware that the climbing line is well left of the lowering line, and the rope runs right over the edge of the roof. It's easiest to have the second clean the pitch while following.

The hardest moves on the climb: at the 4th bolt below the roof and stepping right into the corner above the roof (crux). Seemed like 10a by Boulder Canyon sport-climb standards. Oct 24, 2003
Good route. I thought the 10a crux was on the upper half of the route, pulling onto the face then up into the awkward right-facing corner. May 7, 2005
kyle lefkoff
  5.10a
kyle lefkoff  
  5.10a
This is an excellent, moderate route, and I agree with Ron on its 10a rating. Kudos to Richard for establishing this splendid sector. Aug 24, 2005
Skat  
Great route! Maybe it was the exposure, but the first move above the roof and into/up the right-facing corner felt at least 10a. Also, I would recommend the leader belay the second from the anchors as the rope runs right through a nasty crack at the top of the corner/second roof creating huge rope drag and cutting potential. There is plenty of space to belay from the anchors. Jul 5, 2007
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
If a slingshot belay is desired, the leader can be lowered just just left of the climb. This reduces the rope drag, but a belay at the anchors would be better.

Also, to second the opinion, this would (and still could be lead as) an excellent trad climb. May 28, 2008
Robby Cribbs
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Robby Cribbs   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Definitely felt like 10a. And, did this with a 70 meter rope and had only 10 ft of rope to spare. If you're using a 60 meter, be sure to tie in or knot the ends. Aug 21, 2009
CJ Coccia
Denver, CO
  5.10a
CJ Coccia   Denver, CO
  5.10a
I felt this one had some more awkward moves (reachy for me) than some of the surrounding 5.9s, so I would claim a 5.10a on it...really fun though! I took one fall trying to switch my right hand from a crack to the knob a bolt or two above the first roof section! Would do it again! May 28, 2010
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.9
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.9
I like this route but am unsure about the rating. I thought it was a 5.9, but my friend thought it was harder than the 5.10b near it. Maybe it is reach dependent? I have 6" arm reach on him, so maybe that's why.

I thought this route was no harder than the 5.8s at Sport Park. I also thought the crux was at the 6th bolt, getting into that large chimney-like section.

Either way, wonderful climbing. Be careful with a 60m rope. Jul 5, 2010
Benten
Denver
  5.10a
Benten   Denver
  5.10a
Not bad at all.... Well bolted, back and forth route finding. I found the crux to be under the second roof within the tight squeeze of the dihedral. I was glad I did this after it was done and top roped it again and figured out the sequence without any pauses. Great Avalon classic. Dont forget to take advantage of the scenery, because I always forget. Oct 9, 2010
Michael Day
Boulder, CO
 
Michael Day   Boulder, CO
 
Great climb! It's got a little bit of everything, Slab, jugs, cracks, a roof pull, stemming action, and some more slab. Seems like it would finish after the roof but nope 5 more bolts! 60 meter seems fine for this climb. Jun 30, 2013
Peter Horgan
Crested Butte, CO
Peter Horgan   Crested Butte, CO
Great climb. Really enjoyed it. I do not recommend rapping it when cleaning your draws. The route takes a bend to the left, and rapping off the anchors will put you way to the right on a bunch of them. Otherwise, it was a great warmup! Jul 21, 2013