Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, Erik Volk, Chris Berg, 2001
Page Views: 10,233 total · 50/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

The fifth bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start 20' right of The Fool and 15' left of Wheel of Fortune, at a face leading to a big roof.

Climb the moderate face with a couple of harder moves to the left edge of the big roof above. Pull left around the roof to a ledge then step back right above the roof onto a knobby face. Enter the right-facing corner above. At its top exit left and up easy climbing to the anchor.

Rossiter rates this 10a, but I felt it was significantly easier than its neighbor Wheel of Fortune, also rated 10a by Rossiter. There were no specific crux moves.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring a few longer runners for the bolts just below the roof. 60m rope required to rap or lower.

This should have been left as a trad climb. There is good and easily-placed gear at every bolt except for the third bolt.

Photos