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Routes in Tarot Wall

Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devil, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earth Angel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fapanese Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fool, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goat F***er S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanged Man, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horse, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lust S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magician, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S.I.N. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wheel of Fortune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Ron Olsen, 8/30/06
Page Views: 3,388 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The Magician is a fun new route on the left side of Tarot Wall. Crack, face, arete, and overhang: great variety and superb position. There are several variations, and the route can be done as a 5.9 or a 5.10.

Start on the left side of Tarot Wall, left of Earth Angel and Ah Ya Punter. Look for some stone steps angling up left to the wall. There are two bolts on the face just right of the arete. This is the route. The two bolts mark the direct start, which is 5.10. The standard start (5.9) is around the corner to the left, in a dihedral with parallel fist and finger cracks.

Angle left up the stone steps to the base of the wall. Scramble up to a ledge at the base of a dihedral with parallel fist and finger cracks. Climb the cracks (5.9) and step right to the arete. Place pro in a horizontal crack (#0.75 Camalot) and step up (5.9) to a stance by a bolt. Move up to a great horn and crank past it to a ledge. Step left and climb a V-shaped rock to another ledge. Step left, clip a bolt, and continue left to the overhang by the arete. Work up on funky holds and clip another bolt. Turn the overhang by the bolt, or for more fun, go farther left and crank the overhang using an airy rail (5.9). Clip a final bolt on the slab and traverse right to the anchor. Lower back down. Belay your second up and have them clean the pitch.

Alternate starts:

1. 5.10: Scramble up to the ledge below the dihedral with two cracks. Traverse right and clip a bolt on the face. Work up and clip a second bolt, and make a crux move (5.10) up to a finger crack. The easiest line climbs a little right of the bolts. Continue up face and cracks to the horizontal crack of the standard variation.

2. 5.10: Scramble up to the ledge below the two bolts on the face. Place pro in a finger crack on the right then step up and clip the first bolt. Continue up as in variation 1.

Location

On the arete at the left side of Tarot Wall, about 50' left of Earth Angel.

The easiest approach is around the left side of Avalon. Cross the creek and head up to the first tier by the route Mists of Avalon. Continue left up a path to the left side of Tarot Wall. The path reaches Tarot Wall just left of the route Earth Angel. Walk left about 50' and you're at the route.

Protection

For the 5.9 variation: pro up to a #3 Camalot plus 4 bolts. I placed a #3 Camalot, a red tricam, a #0.75 Camalot, and a pink tricam in addition to the 4 bolts. A #2 Camalot could be placed at the start below the #3 Camalot. To sew up the crack, bring a #4 Camalot and place it above the #3.

For the 5.10 variations: pro up to a #1 Camalot plus 6 bolts. Red Alien and/or #0.75 Camalot for the finger crack above the first two bolts.

Bring a few extendable runners since the pitch traverses in places.

2-bolt anchor. The anchor is a little tricky to clip since it's out on the face to the right. It was placed there to minimize rope drag for lowering and top-roping.
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Not the most aesthetic climb, but fun moves throughout. The bolt line for the top portion of the climb takes a hard left at the overhang and then comes back right again to the anchors. Best to use a long sling on your cam/nut placement before taking the hard left. Jun 11, 2007
With some traffic to clean it up, this will turn into a nice addition to Avalon. Several cruxes and nice variety. Kudos for leaving it a mixed route and not bolting the whole thing. Bring a couple of long slings, and save one for the last bolt (over the top), so the rope will run more smoothly to the anchors on the right. Aug 20, 2007
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10c
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10c
I think the direct start on this one goes at about .10c . I don't really see the point in bolting only half the route, the addition of two bolts to this route would make it a much safer line. I actually climbed to the horizontal before realizing I needed gear. This was in part because I could see bolts higher up, and also saw the two bolts close together down low, so I figured it was well bolted. I would not be surprised if others made the same mistake. Aug 14, 2008
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
Maybe the L hand start is better. But I thought that climbing up the line to the right side of the bolts was more than a little sketchy. Not so much that there's loose rock, more like there's huge sections where everything is simply decomposing.

So long story short, it's not really cleaned up. There's even loose flakes/holds from the last ledge to the chains.
Just a heads up. Apr 22, 2012
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
Might be fun if you like dirt, lichen, loose rock and death flakes. There isn't likely to be a wait. Jun 21, 2012
Paul-B
 
Paul-B  
 
It definitely dirt, a lot of lichen up top, but still a fun route. I did the 9 and 10 start. I would call the 10 start a 10-, it didn't seem much harder than the 9 start, and before you know it you're back on the same route. I did like fact that it is mixed, placing gear increased the fun. Jul 11, 2012
Alexander K
The road
  5.10b/c
Alexander K   The road
  5.10b/c
Rotten rock, loose blocks, a stupid finish, and lots of lichen make this a climb to avoid. Climbing straight up the bolt line at the start also seemed to be harder than any of the other 10s I've done at Avalon. May 23, 2016
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
  5.10b
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
  5.10b
5th bolt had no hanger on it, just threads sticking out! 5/26/16. May 26, 2016
Dale Haas and I went up there on 6/2/16 and put a new hanger, washer, and nut on the 5th bolt. We also tightened all the other bolts on the climb, so hopefully this won't be a problem in the near future.

As far as the quality of climbing on the route...I think the climb is better and more fun doing it via the 5.9 handcrack start on the left. Jun 2, 2016
Forrest L.
  5.10a
Forrest L.  
  5.10a
Very fun moves. Pretty much as good as Lust and other ones closeby. 4-stars for lust and 1.5 for this?! Lol, there is some bias there of some sort. Jun 5, 2016
Keith W
  5.9
Keith W  
  5.9
Did the 5.9 variation. Fun but a bit of a strange line. Lots of zig-zagging. Definitely bring a bunch of slings. You can sew it up in the beginning and in between the bolts. Still a large death block about 3/4 of the way up that will almost certainly fly straight at your belayer! Have fun! Jul 6, 2016
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, Spain
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, Spain
I thought this might be more 5.10b (?) (via direct start by the two bolts) as I had to hang there before getting the moves (I'm currently more of a 10a onsight Boulder Cyn sport leader). I felt like there were three progressively easier cruxes--the first getting past the 2nd bolt, the second crux at the 3rd bolt (traversing slightly right on chossy rock might make it easier), and a third crux getting past the 4th and 5th bolts. Beware, the sixth bolt at the top of the climb, which will protect your second from a pendulum off of the anchors (which are off to climber's right), could be hidden if the plant that is up there grows out any more. I used a couple of medium stoppers and a few finger to hand-sized cams to protect between the bolts. Initially, to protect yourself as you work up to the first two bolts, you can put in a pretty bomber finger-sized cam while standing on the start ledge, go up and clip the two bolts, then come back down to clean the cam. Oh, and the supposed 5.9 variation just to the left (a corner) to start this might be a tad stiff...my buddy who followed had difficulties on it and he normally can cruise 5.9. Jun 17, 2017
Overall, a pretty shitty route and the worst that I have climbed at Avalon by far. The start is awkward 5.10, but falls at the crux are protected fine by the second bolt. Pretty much a one move wonder as after you stick the jug the difficulties of the entire route are 5.7-8ish. You don't really need gear as the climbing eases dramatically, but if you run it out and don't place before the horizontal crack, you are in groundfall territory. I definitely won't ever climb it again, but if you are stoked on a one move wonder, lichen filled, and relatively contrived route, get on it! Apr 30, 2018
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
 
I liked this route. Thanks, Bruce/Ron, for putting it up! I liked it because it ties together a bunch of neat features.That doesn't make for a very straight line and can lead to rope management issues, but I think it's worth it. Also traffic will clean it up. I think it might warrant a third star once cleaned. Jul 29, 2018

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