Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: M Samet, R Garibotti
Page Views: 5,320 total · 41/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Mar 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route was up in in autumn 2007 up the roof-to-headwall right of Earth Angel, on the Tarot Wall. It climbs out the body-length roof via a sort of inset corner before railing left along the lip to head up incipient cracks on the headwall.

Someone had drilled holes for anchor bolts at the top, but didn't put the bolts in, so we used those. The roof is the business, but the headwall is pumper than it looks -- very sustained for Boulder Canyon and a top-quality line...

Location

It is ten feet right of Earth Angel, and goes out the body-sized roof in the middle of the left side of the Tarot Wall.

Protection

8 bolts to two-bolt anchors; slings or extendo draws helpful on bolts two and three.

Photos

Micahisaac
Fort Collins, CO
Micahisaac   Fort Collins, CO
Thanks for submitting this route! Still working the roof, this is a pretty stout route. Aug 16, 2008
Thanks for putting it up. From the ground, I thought (hoped) the roof would be the business and the upper half would be more mellow. Nope. Spanked me. Nice and sustained. Very nice line. Sep 28, 2008
ChanVan Schaack
Denver, CO
  5.12b
ChanVan Schaack   Denver, CO
  5.12b
Great route! Sep 8, 2009
slim

  5.12c
slim    
  5.12c
Can't really comment on the grade, as I didn't get it clean, but the description is very accurate. Cruxy roof (really cruxy getting established above for a non-flexible, semi-weak giraffe), and sustained, pumpy, technical climbing above. This is a really good route that isn't over until you get to the chains. Excellent find by the FA party. Aug 16, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12c
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12c
This is probably the best route I've done at Avalon, although I haven't tried Earth Angel or anything on the upper tier. I loved the crux roof down low, and the climbing on the upper half is sustained and really good as well. One of the better pitches I've done in Boulder Canyon now that I think about it. May 23, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Cool roof move to good face climbing in a flaring crack. Overall, pretty good! Sep 24, 2014
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12c/d
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12c/d
Wow what a good route. I can't believe it took me so long to finally get on it. A top notch route for Boulder Canyon. The roof felt improbable to me till I had the right beta. I've seen many climbers on this, and everyone does the roof differently. After the roof pull is another cruxy move, but it's nowhere near as hard as the roof. Then awesome sustained 5.11 to the top in one of the best positions in Boulder Canyon. Grade felt right on at 12c/d. I thought it was a touch easier than Earth Angel, only very different style. Oct 28, 2014
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
No idea how to pull the roof to the crimps. I was a few inches off everytime. Feel free to send me your beta. Everything after was really fun though. From the roof on was super pumpy. I thought I was going to fall the whole way up. May 16, 2017
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12c/d
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12c/d
Hey Michalm, it's been a bit since I've been on it, but for the roof, when you get the first bad sloper for right hand, I jack my right knee up and slot in a kneebar next to the right hand sloper. At this point, if you get the knee good, it's a game changer, and you can reach over the lip. I'm fuzzy on specifics, but mess around with the kneebar. It worked very well for me, I thought it made a burly V4 feel V2 if you fit the kneebar. Jul 25, 2017