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Routes in Tarot Wall

Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devil, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earth Angel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fapanese Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fool, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goat F***er S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanged Man, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horse, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lust S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magician, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S.I.N. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wheel of Fortune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob Horan; 1996
Page Views: 5,453 total, 36/month
Shared By: Dan Levison on Aug 28, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Avalon's first and hardest sport route, Earth Angel, is the stunning arête/face on the far left side of Tarot Wall. It's hard to believe a route this good hasn't seen a second ascent (as per Rolofson's new guide book) until today; however, we did find the route somewhat dirty and lichen-covered in places so it is possible.

Face climb past 3 bolts to a good stance below the roof. Crank over the roof (12a) and ascend the very sustained and technical face above. A wild dynamic move (spectacular position) at mid-height onto the arête yields the crux. A couple more awkward 5.11 moves and the difficulties abate. I would agree w/ Horan's original rating of 12d.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor; optional gear for finish (last 20 feet).

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.12c/d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12c/d
Yes, there are two ways to climb this route. In September 2009, I redpointed this route & thought it was the easiest .12d I had ever done. My partner, Henry Lester, was working on this route moving onto the arête above the roof, at 6th bolt, & then following the arête. I tried this briefly, & it seemed quite hard. So I followed the seam up the face. Just past 7th bolt, the short, discontinuous hand crack provides a nice rest before the crux traversing left to the arête. Being tall, I am able to span from a sidepull on the seam to the arête. A shorter climber might still find this crux .12d, because they would have to hang on a tiny edge. The next section up the arête, past 8th bolt seemed 5.12, but soon I was able to turn the arête for a rest. There is still more hard moves to the last bolt. May 26, 2015
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
I would give this route four stars but for the bolt placement leading into the crux. Apr 7, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
I agree with Pinklebear. I think the FA party envisioned climbing the arete, but there ended up being an easier way up the face to the right of the bolt line. With that said, the crux for me was actually reaching the bolts to clip draws. Hanging the draws for me and sending was completely out of the question, I was nowhere near being able to reach. I actually had to extend a bunch of draws and ended up skipping some on redpoint, because I could barely reach the extendos I had set up. Clearly for me the crux was making the clips. All clipping aside, the route on the face flows very nicely and the transfer from the crack out right to the arete was very cool moves. The stone is very nice on this one and overall a great climb. Appropriately graded too, I thought it was a touch harder than the route to the right.... Sep 24, 2014
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12d
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12d
Got on this today, and I think it's a great line. I climbed to the right of the bolts then traversed to a good horn on the arête. I think 12d is a fair grade for it. Overall, a very aesthetic climb with great moves and an awesome position. Classic. Sep 17, 2014
Pretty line but a bit nebulous. It seems bolted to keep you out left on the arete, but there is a good crack and sidepulls on the right, though these make clipping way out down and left kind of hairball. You can even get in a nice hand crack at one point and rest. At a certain point, the bolt line forces you to come back left (at least high up, to the horn), though you could just keep going right with some trad gear. Maybe there is a more direct way left onto the arete lower down? Seems to be a little height/wingspan dependent. Didn't send but don't know if I'll be back.... May 5, 2014
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
I was confused by this line in the way Reboot mentions above. There seemed to be several places to traverse left to the arete from the crack above the first roof. We figured out at least three. It always seemed like the natural line wanted to take you up and right but the bolts to the left. Kind of nebulous but good rock at the very least. May 5, 2014
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
5.12d
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
5.12d
Does anyone have beta for this rig? Aug 4, 2013
I just got on the route today, and I will second Joe's comment about it being conditions dependent. It felt really hard in the heat. People might want to be aware that there is a little block with a couple of crimps on top of it that one uses just above the initial roof that felt a little hollow and scary. I don't know how much longer it will stay put. Jul 3, 2011
reboot
.
reboot   .
Matt, I cleaned a draw on the route last weekend. I've sent you a PM....

I'm a little perplexed by the upper section of this route: there is a crack system on the right and the arete on the left, working either would offer good rest and easier moves. Is the point to just work the hard face moves? Jun 20, 2007
I had to leave a QD on Earth Angel over the weekend. I dont think I am strong enough to get it back. If any one happens to get it down, I would love to get it back.

Thanks! May 20, 2007
Joe Collins
  5.12d
Joe Collins  
  5.12d
I highly doubt that this didn't see a 2nd ascent for 9 years until last summer. This is a strikingly obvious line on a very popular crag. Not to mention that there are probably 100+ people living in the Boulder area at any given time who can climb the grade. Most people wouldn't report it if they had redpointed a 12+ route.

As for the grade... the route is VERY condition dependent. When I got on this in July, I thought it was the hardest 12d that I'd ever been on. 30 degrees cooler this weekend and it felt like its grade. Nevertheless, this is certainly one of the best hard-12s in Boulder Canyon.

BTW, if you manage to pull through the secondary crux (spicy) you will have no trouble doing the 5.10 finish without gear. Also, there is no tree below the route to hit if you fall. Sep 18, 2006
Alan Higham
  5.12d
Alan Higham  
  5.12d
Great pitch, there is a rest after pulling the roof, but then it is very sustained until the last bolt. I do not feel the need for supplemental gear after the last bolt, it eases off significantly. Sep 5, 2005
ac
ac  
My partner and I did this route a few years back. Did not realize it had only a first ascent. Gear at the end is strongly recommended! We took some killer falls onto the tree below. Hard moves over the roof and sustained slab moves up the arete. Nice to hear it was 12d and not us climbing so poorly! Aug 30, 2005