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Routes in Tarot Wall

Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devil, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earth Angel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fapanese Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fool, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goat F***er S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanged Man, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horse, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lust S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magician, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S.I.N. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wheel of Fortune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, Christine Damiano, 2001
Page Views: 3,715 total, 22/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Wheel of Fortune is the third route from the right on Tarot Wall. From the talus approach, walk left, past the low roof band that has the routes The Hanged Man and The Horse. Wheel of Fortune starts at the left edge of this roof, just left of The Horse, and 15' right of The Tower.

Pull over a small overhang to the first bolt. Moderate climbing leads slightly right past two small left facing corners. Turn the arête onto the face. Make the crux move up and left to get established on the upper face. Sneak left around the arête for a move, and then easy climbing up the arête to the anchors.

Wheel of Fortune is the best of the 4 climbs I did on Avalon this day (the others were The Tower, The Fool, and The Hanged Man).

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. The first 5 bolts aren't necessary, since there is good gear nearby.
We tried tightening the crux bolt a few weeks ago, only to discover that the bolt itself rotated, so you couldn't tighten it.

So I replaced it today with a Fixe Hely glue-in (Duplex 2304 stainless steel, aka "PLX"). Had to drill a new hole since the bolt broke at the neck (after a lot of work trying to spin it out...). Sep 22, 2017
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
 
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
 
The bolt hanger at the crux move to the arete is loose. If you have a wrench handy, a few twists would be welcome. Sep 3, 2017
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
  5.9
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
  5.9
Big, loose block, right above the 3rd bolt if I remember correctly. If it fell, it would chop the rope for sure. Watch yourselves. Aug 16, 2013
keith story
Boulder, CO
keith story   Boulder, CO
Though I thought most of this route was pretty lame, I fell in love with the crux, or at least the right side path. Everyone in my party did it differently, and we all had mixed feelings on the moves.

If you're feeling a little freaky, go far right at the crux. It's a bit more balance focused, which gets me off. Jul 5, 2010
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
I didn't do the route before the rockfall, but the move on the face was a bit harder than 10a, especially after doing Lust just before this route. Overall not really worth the time with many better climbs around. But I can agree to disagree. Aug 3, 2007
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
 
I was surprised to read about rockfall on this route, as it is still fully intact as a one-move 10a sport route. However, that one move is interesting, making this not a bad warmup for something better like Lust. Aug 2, 2006
Unfortunately, there is now only one option for the crux, and that's directly up the face. The 100 pound "pebble" now at the base of the climb used to be jug on the left traverse option. I believe this increases the grade now? I knew I should have skipped that third breakfast donut. Careful - the starting hold for this route is a little wobbly as well. Jul 30, 2006
There seems to have been significant rockfall off this route, as there is a big scar below the crux headwall and lots of new looking boulders on the belay ledge. The remaining rock seems solid, and it is lucky the bolts are just right of the detachment area.

Does anyone know when this happened? I hope the rocks came off naturally when no one was around. Sep 12, 2005
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
This felt harder than Isle of the Dead. Oct 27, 2003
Ivan said " a two star 80 foot sport route at Avalon must be as good as a two star multipitch Eldo route. And hence, I feel most sport routes rate only one star." I can't agree with this statement. I can have as much satisfaction from climbing a V3 boulder, or a 5 pitch 5.8, or a 23 pitch El cap route, or an 80' sport route. Climbing is climbing! Oct 24, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ivan Rezucha wrote: "On the other hand, assigning stars on a per-crag basis isn't very useful. A crag could be crap compared to other nearby crags, yet it could have 2- and 3-star routes on it, because they are the best at that particular crag. When I look on this site for 3-star sport routes, I don't want to end up at this crap crag."

I agree that star ratings should encompass a larger area than a single crag. I think it's useful to consider Boulder Canyon sport climbs as a group, and assign stars compared to other climbs in that group. I don't think it's useful to compare Boulder Canyon sport climbs with trad climbs in Eldorado. If that were the case, then I agree that most sport climbs in Boulder Canyon would merit no more than one star.

When I visit a large crag like Avalon (56 routes), I want to know which routes are the best. Wheel of Fortune and The Tower are much better than Sex Slave (dirty), The Fool (awkward), and the Hanged Man (one-move non-wonder). If the latter routes deserve one star, then Wheel of Fortune and The Tower deserve two. I bring friends back to Avalon to climb Wheel of Fortune and The Tower; I don't bring them back to climb the other routes. Are these routes as good as two-star Eldorado routes? Of course not. Are these routes as good as other two-star Boulder Canyon sport routes? Definitely. Oct 24, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Ron Olsen said: "This is a two-star route by Avalon standards."

Just how DO we assign quality ratings? Under Resources/Terminology /Route Evaluations there is no mention of assigning stars on a per-crag basis, so I've been assuming quality stars are assigned on a site wide basis, e.g., a two star 80 foot sport route at Avalon must be as good as a two star multipitch Eldo route. And hence, I feel most sport routes rate only one star. That's not good, since, if someone wants to climb sport in, say, Boulder Canyon, they want to know this: Given that I plan to climb sport in Boulder Canyon, which are the good routes? It doesn't matter that a 3 star sport route may not compare with Ruper, Yellow Spur or the Edge.

On the other hand, assigning stars on a per-crag basis isn't very useful. A crag could be crap compared to other nearby crags, yet it could have 2- and 3-star routes on it, because they are the best at that particular crag. When I look on this site for 3-star sport routes, I don't want to end up at this crap crag. Oct 24, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The crux can be done in two ways: via a high step left onto a foothold on the arete, or by moving left around the arete, going up, then back right.

This is a two-star route by Avalon standards. Oct 24, 2003