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Routes in Tarot Wall

Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devil, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earth Angel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fapanese Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fool, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goat F***er S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanged Man, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horse, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lust S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magician, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S.I.N. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wheel of Fortune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Unknown? possibly Wayne Crill, 8/22/10
Page Views: 183 total, 2/month
Shared By: Wayne Crill on Aug 23, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

I find it hard to believe that this route has not been led before, and still presume it has; however, I could find no record of any previous ascent of this line. Climb the face R of the start of The Tower and L of the very easy, corner weakness to the alcove below the big roof. Climb the fun steep roof through the wide slot and hand crack on the right, after surmounting the roof climb straight up the nice face to a smaller second roof to end up at the belay anchors atop The Tower.

Location

This route climbs the obvious crack through the right side of the big roof between the routes The Tower and Wheel of Fortune on the R. side of The Tarot Wall. It's fun climbing, worthy of three stars if not for easily avoided loose blocks at the base of the roof, and lichen on the upper face. Above the first roof, the route is right under The Tower rappel line, and there is a random bolt in the middle of this face (which I did not clip as there is gear all around it; possibly someone was looking at one of the two much more difficult crack lines out the middle or L side of the roof?).

Protection

SR.

Photos

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Wayne Crill
an Altered State
 
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
 
I'm not sure of this grade, somewhere between 9+ and 10+? Maybe HardCor will repeat it and tell me what he thinks?

Yeah, it's a little dirty still since I didn't clean at all, but it's still good fun, if you like the high quality choss-a-neering kinda thing. Aug 23, 2010