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Tarot Wall

Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Avalon > Second Tier
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

Tarot Wall is the leftmost area on the Second Tier. Home to a number of good 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes, including The Devil (11c), Lust (10c), The Tower (10a), and Wheel of Fortune (10a). Earth Angel (12d) is a difficult testpiece that has seen very few ascents.

A fun new route, The Magician (9 or 10), climbs an arete at the left side of Tarot Wall.

L->R:

AB. Direct Start to The Magician, 10, 1p, 85', gear & bolts.

B. The Magician, 9 or 10, 1p, 80', gear & bolts. Cracks, arete, face, roof.

C. Ah Ya Punter, 11-, 1p, gear. LFD & roof.

D. Earth Angel, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts. Face, roof, and arete on left.

E. Manganese Direct, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.

F. The Constant Gardener, 12+, 1p, bolts.

G. The Devil, 11, 1p, 70', bolts. Steep, bulging face.

H. Lust, 10, 1p, 90', bolts, steep face.

I. The Fool, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Awkward at start.

J. The Tower, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts. Long, varied, enjoyable.

K. The Hermit, 12, 1p, 100', gear.

L. S.I.N., 10, 1p, 90', gear.

M. Wheel of Fortune, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts. Corner, roof, steep face.

N. The Horse, 10+, 1p, 60', bolt & gear. Overhang to cracks.

O. The Hanged Man, 10, 1p, 50', bolts. Brief overhang to face.

On a short wall by the talus field approach:

P. Goat Arete, 10+, 1p, 45', gear.

Q. Goat F***ker, 12-, 25', bolts. Quartz dike.

Getting There

Climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt trail starts at the top of the talus. Continue up the trail a short distance until the trail splits; take the left branch to get to Tarot Wall. Follow the trail left around a shoulder to the road side of the crag. The first route you'll see is The Hanged Man at a low overhang with a bolt.

If you started your day climbing on the First Tier, you can continue up the path left from there and reach the left side of Tarot Wall, by the route Earth Angel.

Also on the left side of Tarot Wall is a trail heading downstream toward Solaris.

See the Beta Photo for details.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
The Magician
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Direct Start to The Magician
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
Ah Ya Punter
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 24
Earth Angel
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 71
Manganese Direct
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 69
The Constant Gardener
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 320
The Devil
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 628
Lust
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 92
The Fool
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 495
The Tower
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
The Hermit
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
S.I.N.
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 263
Wheel of Fortune
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 38
The Horse
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 114
The Hanged Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Magician
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Direct Start to The Magician
 1
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Ah Ya Punter
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Earth Angel
 24
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Manganese Direct
 71
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Constant Gardener
 69
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Devil
 320
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Lust
 628
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Fool
 92
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Tower
 495
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Hermit
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
S.I.N.
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wheel of Fortune
 263
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Horse
 38
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
The Hanged Man
 114
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Avalon, showing most of the major features.<br>
<br>
Note: The depicted Northeast Face is also known as Crack Land.
[Hide Photo] Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note: The depicted Northeast Face is also known as Crack Land.
The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
[Hide Photo] The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
While belaying, always make sure you are paying attention and in control of the brake hand.
[Hide Photo] While belaying, always make sure you are paying attention and in control of the brake hand.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bruno D
Truckee, CA
[Hide Comment] Someone left some climbing shoes here on Saturday July 30th...call me if they are yours 973 255 0862. Aug 2, 2011
Garrett Lorette
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] A big, ol' block was ripped off of The Tower on the route, just left of bolt 2, after a party of 6 had just climbed it. We were below and saved by the shouts of "rock rock rock". Heads up. Sep 15, 2020