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Routes in Wall of the Dead

Dead Again S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Can Dance S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Zone, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Isle of the Dead S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Glennis Walters, 2000
Page Views: 6,110 total · 31/month
Shared By: Jake Wyatt on Jul 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


305 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Start just right of a pine tree at the right side of The Wall of the Dead. Climb a corner just left of the arete to a ledge. Continue up another corner and move right to an airy stance on the arete. Work up to a roof, and turn it on the left. Step left and climb an awkward corner to the anchor.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A few longer runners to use by the roof can help with rope drag.

[Eds. Note that the 2 bolts from Dead Zone aka Sarcophagus just to the left can confuse the unwary, onsight climber. If you clip these, you need 9 QDs.]
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This is one of my favorite routes at Avalon. Fun, airy moves with excellent position. Also, it seems a bit easier than 10a. The move stepping left under the roof is more committing than difficult. Many of my friends who are not 5.10 climbers have cruised this pitch on a top rope. I'd give it two stars and rate it 5.9. Aug 6, 2002
Ray Snead  
 
RR calls this Dead Can Dance, 10a; see Tomb of Sorrows comment.

A two star route on a one star crag. Parse that! Sep 27, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
The move left under the roof is 5.9, not 5.10a; many of my climbing partners concur.

This is a good pitch for climbers breaking into 5.9 sport leading. Sep 7, 2003
Two things I've noticed about you, Ron: You feel the need to post on every single climb you do (in this case, TWICE), and you seem to be climbing with (and posting photos of) a different woman every week. I guess I'm jealous. Sep 8, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
AC: How do you know how much Ron is climbing? Perhaps he's posting on only 10% of the routes he climbs. That's what makes me jealous! Sep 8, 2003
Joe Leiper
  5.9+
Joe Leiper  
  5.9+
Unique pitch; sustained and varied. The last several feet can mix you up. Pro is fine but there are a few spooky moves right before clips. I wouldn't recommend this to someone just breaking into 5.10 leading. Jun 16, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.9
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.9
5.9,5.9+ whatever the grade, a lot of fun with good features, interesting climbing. Well worth two stars. Sep 26, 2004
Regarding Dogs at the Crags:

I am not opposed to people bringing their dogs to the crags, however, if you do, you must be responsible for your dog at ALL times.

Considerations:

It is not OK for your dog to bark at, or approach in an aggressive manner, other climbers coming up to the crag. If your dog is [territorial] and aggressive, leave it at home.

It is not OK for your dog to leave a pile of shit at the bottom of a crag. As of this Sunday, there is a big pile of dog shit at the bottom of the route Dead Can Dance at Avalon. This is unconscionable and should never happen. It is not the dog's fault, but the owner's. CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG or don't bring your dog.

This stuff is just common sense and common courtesy.

Come on people. We need to work together here.

Richard Rossiter Aug 2, 2005
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.9-
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.9-
It is easily and safely led on gear. Aug 21, 2008
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
5.9
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
5.9
This climb currently has a spinner bolt. Jul 12, 2009
Joe Henry
  5.10a
Joe Henry  
  5.10a
Our group consensus was this was 9+. Fun route with big holds. I've recently been leading on 5.8 and 5.9 but not sure if I was ready to lead this one. Jul 25, 2010
Benten
Denver
 
Benten   Denver
 
One of my favs in the canyon so far, great exposure, variable climbing, and nice bolts. Good job. Oct 9, 2010
Fiona Dunne
Boulder, CO
 
Fiona Dunne   Boulder, CO
 
Has one bolt that spins somewhat - maybe the same one Dr. Evil mentioned? Jun 4, 2011
Canon
  5.9+
Canon  
  5.9+
Loved it. 9+ seems about right. The last moves before the anchor were indeed committing. One longer draw on the bolt under the roof should cut out the rope drag. Jul 23, 2011
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
  5.9+
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
  5.9+
A fun route of the "why does it have a plus" variety. Awkward/unexpected positions and being over vertical for some moves make it a plus for me. A great route because they holds are indeed big 5.9 holds, but you need to move smartly. If you're struggling with a move, consider that you're probably doing it wrong and need to look around for somewhere else to grab or put your foot to make it a 5.9 move.

The 5th bolt needs the extended draw to avoid some ugly dragging - a shoulder length sling would be a good length. Apr 29, 2012
JonnyGreenlee Greenlee
Evergreen, CO
  5.9
JonnyGreenlee Greenlee   Evergreen, CO
  5.9
I got a bail biner off this today. PM me if it's yours and you want it back. Aug 30, 2012
Andres Fernandez
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9+
Andres Fernandez   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9+
The best sport route we did today. I'd definitely do it again. 5.9+ seems appropriate, and if you're out of shape, it'd be fair to maybe call it 5.10a. Great problems going up, and all the bolts seemed solid. Distance between the 2 and 3rd bolt might be a touch long for some beginning sport leaders. Kinda reminded me of the Yellow Spur in Eldorado Canyon. May 31, 2015
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.9
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.9
Certainly not 10a - "the move" is simply one of commitment, not difficulty.

Get on it though! It climbs a lot better than it looks, and in contrast to a lot of bolted routes in the canyon, this one is pretty much on for its entirety. There are lots of good rests but very few gimme moves. Sep 15, 2015

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