Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wall of the Dead

Dead Again S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Can Dance S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Zone, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Isle of the Dead S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Richard Rossiter and Serena Benson, 2000
Page Views: 2,984 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jake Wyatt on May 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


161 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start at the left side of The Wall of the Dead, in the chimney that is the start for Tomb of Sorrows.

There is a loose shelf leading up into the chimney and the first bolt is in a black-streaked area on the right.

The route is well bolted and has some good moves through the middle section. Gain a rest at a flake and go for the crux moves approaching the anchor above a bulge of sorts. Good quality rock, good protection, rather continous and interesting climbing.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
So it isn't perfect, I had fun. Some thinking required.

Now it's 3 yrs after I wrote this comment. I climbed it again, I like the start. It is fun, but the upper sections are just annoying that they are harder than 10b or you are forced to go right, which seems off route. You should still do it while you're here though...but I reduced my rating from 3 to 1 star. Apr 29, 2012
Jeff Chrisler
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Jeff Chrisler   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Rarely am I one to comment on the way a climb was bolted due to the sheer effort put in. Here though, I don't understand this route and the bolting at all. It's definitely contrived if you follow the bolt line and stay off the things to the right. To me though, it's so close to the easier things on the right that you might as well have bolted that area instead. When I was climbing this today, I wanted to go left, but there was so little there and no chalk whatsoever I felt off route. I just wished I was on something else and that rarely happens. If one wanted us to climb the harder portions of this to the left, I think the bolt line should have been even farther to the left and this would go at high 5.10s or even 11.

I say, avoid this route, and climb either Dead Again or Strange Science to enjoy your day. Apr 10, 2012
dseltzer
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
dseltzer   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
I found this route fun if you stay on the bolt line (hard for a 5.10b I thought). My partner who went up right and stuck to the crack(probably a 5.9 or so) also enjoyed it... so maybe it's contrived, but it's fun either way. Nov 23, 2011
Benten
Denver
 
Benten   Denver
 
Peeps definitely need to be a little easier on this route, because it is great for learning the speedbumps of 5.10 climbing. There are trust issues here, but hey we all have a little bit of those, right? Oct 9, 2010
mike h
Denver, CO
mike h   Denver, CO
I agree - it's frustrating when 'bailing right' means using the better holds that are a safe, easy reach from the bolt line. The bolts could direct you left more if that's what was really intended. Aug 5, 2010
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
This is a 10 if you go straight up the bolts, but if you reach right it can go as easy as 5.9 or 5.8. I don't like routes where holds 1 foot right of the bolts are "off," since they seem contrived, but if you climb it as a 5.9 then it is fun. Sep 20, 2008
Aeon Aki    
 
If 5.10 is your limit, this will feel very hard. If you warm up on .10s, skip this one and do the next one to the right (Dead Again). Aug 14, 2007
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10b
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10b
Keeps you thinking if you avoid bailing right after halfway. Last clip made easier by finding hidden hand hold out left...decent stances the whole way. Aug 18, 2005
Rossiter's website (boulderclimbs.com) grades this climb 10a. It felt like 10+ to me (as compared to other 10s I've climbed in Boulder Canyon). May 4, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
I climbed it last weekend and found it enjoyable. The rock was clean and solid, with the exception of the loose crack to the right of the first few moves (although using the crack isn't necessary anyway). The route itself had interesting moves, and seemed rather sustained. The cruxes felt to be at the very beginning and very end. Oct 21, 2003
Besides the fact that this route is contrived, dirty, unesthetic, rotten and the 5th bolt is in an exfoliated plate, I just can't find a place to keep my pants clean when I'm sitting to belay... Sep 27, 2002