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Strange Science
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 364
votes
Routes in Middle Wall
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Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft |
| FA: | Bob Horan and Richard Rossiter, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 15,655 total · 69/month |
| Shared By: | Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Oct 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update
Details
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
I'll stick my neck out and give Strange Science three stars (at least by Boulder Canyon standards). The climb is pretty obvious as you hike up the faint trail to Avalon. The route follows a line of small flakes up the center of a beautiful forty-foot high scooped face, a pleasingly natural and independent line.
The right arete, Free Fall, is bolted and (5.12a?) has a steep bouldery look, with a seam and closely-spaced bolts.
Right again is a steep, short face then a short, scruffy, easy dihedral (also bolted) leading to an expansive, low-angle slab above.
The climb starts off easy, past jugs and a couple bolts, then as the angle steepens, the reaches betwen the flakes get harder. The crux move, at the fourth bolt, is a powerful long reach problem, but after this there is no let-up, but a pronounced pump as you struggle up some more perplexing moves, with little for the feet, before you lurch onto the obvious easier ground up and right.
Though short, this has all I look for in a sport pitch, a Gritstone-like series of cool and sustained and yet entirely logical moves, with no filler, which steadily builds up to make for a great experience.
The right arete, Free Fall, is bolted and (5.12a?) has a steep bouldery look, with a seam and closely-spaced bolts.
Right again is a steep, short face then a short, scruffy, easy dihedral (also bolted) leading to an expansive, low-angle slab above.
The climb starts off easy, past jugs and a couple bolts, then as the angle steepens, the reaches betwen the flakes get harder. The crux move, at the fourth bolt, is a powerful long reach problem, but after this there is no let-up, but a pronounced pump as you struggle up some more perplexing moves, with little for the feet, before you lurch onto the obvious easier ground up and right.
Though short, this has all I look for in a sport pitch, a Gritstone-like series of cool and sustained and yet entirely logical moves, with no filler, which steadily builds up to make for a great experience.
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