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Routes in Middle Wall

Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 7,416 ft
GPS: 39.998, -105.412 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 26,750 total, 188/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The Middle Wall is a popular area at Avalon. The classic Strange Science (11c) is a big attraction. Free Fall (12a) is another great route just right of Strange Science. Around the corner to the right lies a big slab which has several popular moderate routes, including Incline Club (8), Tomb of Sorrows (9), and Disinclination (7).

Routes from left to right:

A. Moomin Papa's Little Adventure, 11+, 1p, 25', gear.
B. Supernatural, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
C. Strange Science, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Free Fall, 11+, bolts. Arete.
E. Rip Cord, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Disinclination, 6, 1p, 90', bolts. Corner.
G. Flashpoint, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts. above F.
H. Midway, 6, 1p, bolts & gear. Crack.
I. Incline Club, 7+, 1p, 100', bolts. Corner.
J. Tomb of Sorrows, 8, 1p, 75', bolts. Chimney.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt path starts at the top of the talus. Follow the path uphill a bit until the trail splits. Continue up the hill on the right trail branch. You'll eventually reach a steep wall with a scooped-out face; this is the route Strange Science. Free Fall is the arete to the right. The slab routes Disinclination and Incline Club start just up the hill to the right, at a right-facing corner. Tomb of Sorrows starts at the top of the slab in a chimney on the left.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Incline Club
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supernatural
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Strange Science
Sport, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Fall
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ripcord
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Incline Club 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Supernatural 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Strange Science 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Free Fall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ripcord 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Middle Wall »

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Photos

KARL P.  
To whom it may concern -
We were climbing at the Middle Wall area yesterday (09/16) and found a rope bag and contents that someone had left behind. If you believe this to be yours, please contact me and describe the bag and its contents in order to reclaim it.

Thanks,
Karl
Duckzilla.kp@gmail.com Sep 17, 2012

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