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Routes in Middle Wall

Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 1996
Page Views: 7,950 total, 43/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Sep 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


156 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start just right of Strange Science. What you see is what you get on this route: a steep, right-angling, finger crack to the arete, and easier climbing. It is a good pitch.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt chain anchor.
Chad Elliott
Golden
  5.11d
Chad Elliott   Golden
  5.11d
Skip the clip! Aug 30, 2017
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Richard,

I'm not sure if you'll read this, but thank you for putting up the route. Are the bolts in weird placements? Yes. Did you protect the hell out of it so it's super safe? Yes! That's all that needs to be said. It's safe, fun, and pushes you to either mentally be tough and skip or be stronger and clip. Fun, little route, and I thank you for your time and effort!

P.S.: I hope your back suffers no more injuries! Apr 10, 2015
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
  5.11+
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
  5.11+
Someone ought to remove the extra bolt. It's a little overkill even for BoCan. Sep 5, 2013
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.11c/d
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.11c/d
Haha, my bad Eric, V3 ish..? Better? Slim, I used a dumb rope, but I was pretending that I had a couple organics beneath me and that made me feel better. Oct 22, 2012
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12a
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12a
Alternative BETA Alert: so I did this entirely differently... actually statically though I normally don't always climb statically. I had my right hand gastoning the flake just left of crux bolt, then did a big cross over to the good part of the slot before the jug which made the left hand really positive. This also allowed me to not be so scrunched at the crux when getting high feet. Went right hand to sloping pinch below jug, got left foot to ticked hold, flagged right, and slowly went right hand to jug. No throw needed at all. Sep 24, 2012
Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
  5.12a
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
  5.12a
Jon, funny, but V4 doesn't translate into 11c/d. One of your two grade suggestions must be wrong, they are mutually exclusive. May 13, 2012
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
Nice work! That's pretty bold. Did you use a pad? Dec 5, 2011
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.11c/d
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.11c/d
Glorified boulder problem... V4. Dec 5, 2011
John mac
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
John mac   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Skip the clip! I am a huge wuss and had no problem skipping it. The fall is clean and the hold after is bomber. Aug 24, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
If they are difficult you can skip some of the clips or get them from above and be OK. They are pretty close together. May 14, 2007
I had trouble onsighting this route with the crux clip as well. (I thought it was clip #6 - the one on the face, above the sloping crack, right before you go around the arete.) My right hand was in the sloping crack, left hand on the little side pull and no feet... I discovered the crux clip is actually ok for a 5'7" climber with 0 ape index if:

Clip easier bolt #4 (I thought it was #5).
Left hand on farthest left chalked hold, sideways crimp pocket. Approximately 1 foot left of the sloping crack. Approximately 1 foot left of the vertical flake/edge.

Left foot flags out left.
Right foot finds a little pocket underneath.
Reach up and right about 4-5 feet to the clip, clip it. Reset body position, breath, clip rope.

Then reset left hand to vertical flake/edge, move right hand over on sloping crack and throw for jug.

Excellent route, Richard! Nov 8, 2006
I just climbed this today. Awesome route and my first 12a. I found the 5th bolt to be difficult to clip as well. I did notice there is a high foot out to the left (flat horizontal spot that's triangular) when you're moving into the crux. It's a pretty big foot but difficult to hold. Using it was the only way I was able to make that 5th clip. Nov 23, 2005
Richard's story is a prime example that one should always know how to use the equipment one is carrying, and that hanging on a rope is no place to experiment if you don't know how to use it properly. Jul 23, 2005
ac
ac  
Great story Richard. I love reading this kind of stuff. I'm sure you have more interesting FA stories (hopefully not too many like this one!) you could share on this website. Jul 22, 2005
Richard Rossiter
  5.12a
Richard Rossiter  
  5.12a
Regarding the bolts along the overhang. Folks comment that the arrangement is weird and somewhat hard to clip. This is because I set up this otherwise very cool route alone during the winter of 1996. I couldn't find anyone (even Bonnie) to go up and belay me in the snow (and it was snowing), so I went up alone as usual, rapped from a tree on the upper ledge and set the ring anchors that are in use today. I pulled the rope, threaded the rings and rappelled to the talus.

Using a Petzl Shunt I climbed the route and marked the bolts without the luxury of a belay. At the crux, I blew out and fell away from the rock on the Shunt. I could not reach the wall again, so I thought maybe I could rappel with the Shunt by pressing in against the gate. I discovered that a Shunt is either on or off, you cannot rappel with a Shunt. So I fell free to the talus and landed on my back. I was just lying there with the snow falling in my eyes. I thought sure I was injured. I moved my arms, my legs, my head and seemed to be OK. I cautioned myself to be very careful getting up. "You cannot fall this far and be OK," I thought. But I was OK.

Now you know why the route is called FREE FALL. I went right back up and finished marking the bolts with spots of chalk. I soloed back to the anchors from Disinclination with the drill and set the bolts. This, I think, should explain why one or two of the placements are sort of hard to clip. A few weeks later, after it stopped snowing, I went back with Bonnie and led the route for the first time. I thought those clips were difficult too. It is still a good route, no? Jul 21, 2005
Lon Black  
 
Since I'm a wimp, I clipped the crux bolt a little early. Actually, if you try clipping it one move before you naturally would, the right hand is bomber, and the clip isn't that bad. Seemed better than clipping after moving up and right of the crux, because doing so is pretty committing. Again depends on whether or not you want to take the fall down and left.

Nice route. Don't miss the little toe-in spot for your left foot at the crux. Jul 16, 2005
I was thrilled to have onsighted this route a few years back. Before I went up, I decided there was no way I was gonna clip that one bolt till late and I was glad I waited. Good advice, so take it.

bobl Jun 21, 2004
Excellent!!!!! The jug is good go for it!!! Jun 20, 2004
chad wolak
  5.12a
chad wolak  
  5.12a
Fun and short bouldery climb up a clean and aesthetic arete. May 4, 2004
Joe Collins
  5.12a
Joe Collins  
  5.12a
I agree with Chris. Hard to onsight because of the location of the bolt at the crux. The bolts are literally 3-4 feet apart through most of the middle section, so it's hard to believe that one could be in a bad place... but yet there it is. As it is, the 5th bolt can only be clipped from smack in the middle of the crux... once the draw is hanging, it can be clipped by tall people before engaging the crux. For the onsight, the best option would be to skip the clip and finish the crux, then clip the 6th bolt, risking a nasty swinging fall. Mar 24, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.12a
Chris Archer  
  5.12a
A fun and photogenic pitch on generally excellent holds. The crux involves a short section getting to the arete where the feet run out. The two bolts at the crux are very close and seem to be oddly placed. Clipping the second one is one of the hardest moves on the route. Perhaps it would have been better to have placed one bolt lower and out right in place of the 2. Oct 20, 2003