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Routes in Middle Wall

Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, 2000
Page Views: 679 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jake Wyatt on Jul 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Begin in the chimney right of the huge slab and the route Incline Club (aka Inclination). Climb the chimney onto a chockstone. You can clip a bolt on the right wall to protect the start. Step left and climb the right edge of the slab to anchors shared with Incline Club.

You can also climb directly up the arete; start just left of the chimney. A steep headwall (5.8) leads to the lower-angle slab above. This line meets up with the other start at the fourth bolt.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is 75' long.
S. Neoh
  5.8
S. Neoh  
  5.8
It would appear that this route now has its own rap anchors above those for Incline Club. Beware of loose blocks on the ledge that leads to the anchors. Aug 30, 2017
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.8
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.8
Pretty meh honestly. The direct start is thoughtful and fun but very short, and the slab is no harder than 5.5. The crux is between the first and second bolts. Sep 15, 2015
As a bit of additional information, it appears that a lot of the bolts Richard Rossiter used up at Avalon are actually 10mm and not 3/8". These bolts use a 10x1 nut which is the reason why my 3/8" nuts wouldn't work on the hangerless bolt. Luckily, McGuckin's carries the 10x1 nuts in both SS and plated. Jun 4, 2013
Ron Olsen and I replaced the first bolt on the arete start. We wanted to use the original stud/bolt, but the threads were damaged and a new nut could not be put, safely, on the existing stud. May 30, 2013
Joe Brannan
Lyons, CO
Joe Brannan   Lyons, CO
First bolt on arĂȘte start is missing its hanger as of 5-22-2013. May 23, 2013
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
I feel like the start is more like 5.7, and the slab above more like 5.4. The only thing that makes the start tough is that you can't really see your feet, but there are huge footholds through that section. Jun 10, 2010
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
Richard Rossiter just added a new start to the route, up the arete left of the chimney. A steep 5.8 face move gains the slab, then it's a cruise up to the anchors. It's worth doing if the chimney is wet from recent rain. See for details. Jul 7, 2005