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Routes in Middle Wall

Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001
Page Views: 329 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 19, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Flashpoint climbs a right-facing dihedral on the left side of the big pillar at the top of the Incline Club/Disinclination slab.

Approach by climbing Disinclination, or one of the harder routes to the left (Supernatural, Strange Science, Free Fall, Ripcord). Belay at a two-bolt anchor at the top of Disinclination.

Step around the arete to the left, clip the first bolt and make an awkward move left into the dihedral. Clip the second bolt and make the crux move up to a good edge. Continue easily past the third bolt to the anchor. Lower back to the anchor atop Disinclination.

Descend from the anchor atop Disinclination via two rappels straight down; stop at the anchor atop Ripcord for the second rappel. It might be possible to get off with one rappel with a 60m rope if you angle the rappel sharply uphill.

This seldom-climbed route is barely one star, and recommended only if you've climbed everything else and want to tick all the routes on the crag.

Protection [Suggest Change]

2-bolt anchor at the start. 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
You can totally run this into a single pitch from the base and still lower off with a single 70M, but watch out! You'd likely hit the ledge if you fall before the second clip. May 14, 2007
dr.natalie
Boulder, CO
 
dr.natalie   Boulder, CO
 
The 2 ledges make this a sketchy lead. Good climb on TR, but not worth it to me to ever climb again. The weird moves are right at ledge-decking potential. May 27, 2008
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Did as one pitch from ground approaching via Disinclination. You can lower all the way off with a 70, maybe even a 60. Jul 14, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
I fell at the crux before clipping the second bolt and did not hit the ledge. This was true even though I pulled my belayer off his feet causing him to fall down the hill at the base. So, you likely won't hit the ledge falling at the crux. Jul 14, 2009
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Not a bad route, if you don't mind climbing a long 5.7 to do a very short 5.11a. It must get no traffic, because I had to smear on some lichen. I rappelled from the top to the ground with (what I belive was) a 60m. But there are two other sets of anchors on the way down. Oct 3, 2011
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
  5.11a
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
  5.11a
This line would be a lot more enjoyable if the FA crew had brushed it more. Aug 1, 2013

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