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Routes in Middle Wall

Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Richard Rossiter, solo
Page Views: 1,470 total · 8/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on May 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start in the same right-facing corner as Incline Club and Disinclination.

The start can be done with all gear or by clipping the first three bolts of Incline Club, until that climb peels right out onto the slab while Midway follows the crack straight up. If an all-gear ascent is desired, it is possible to climb the right side of the arĂȘte, placing gear in cracks along the way. Once the slab is reached, have a ball!

The gear is great and the position is airy. The crack could use another 100 ascents, as there is some vegetation and loose rock, but nothing too annoying. The starting arĂȘte or the last dihedral at the top may be the crux, otherwise, you will find easy, protectable 5.4 climbing along the crack. At the top of the crack, set up a belay among the huge boulders, rocks and trees on the flat upper ledge.

To descend, walk climber's right to the top of Incline Club. There is an easily accessible large ledge with two bolts and another set of bolts just below that is the anchor for Incline Club. Rap to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack & 3 bolts.

Photos

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William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
 
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
 
I didn't feel as though this line was worthwhile really. Not a fun beginner line, the gear really isn't all that great and I was looking, the crack isn't so much a crack as it is a flared feature, and it's really rather 'gunky.' I suggest you climb Disinclination instead. Jun 25, 2005