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Routes in Middle Wall

Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: Norie Kizaki, Ben Collett, June 2008
Page Views: 759 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Do a few hard moves off the ground to reach the bottom of a finger crack that goes up the second half of the wall. At the base of the crack you can get a good medium nut and a purple TCU. The climbing eases significantly here. With a few bouldering pads, it'd be a good boulder problem.

Location

If you are at Strange Science, look over your left shoulder and you will see a short slightly overhung wall. Moomin Pappa's Little Adventure climbs this short wall.

Protection

Nuts and a purple TCU. You can build an anchor with nuts at the top.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
So short as to almost be a boulder, but for the bad landing. No less, bad enough holds to pack a punch even at 25' tall. Jun 22, 2013