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Routes in Middle Wall

Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, solo, 1996
Page Views: 5,539 total, 29/month
Shared By: Jake Wyatt on May 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

What a fine route! Sometimes its hard to appreciate a good moderate route because perhaps the thrill of victory on an often tried send is missing, and most of us fixate and dream of returning to see who we are only when a challenge is upon us. With Incline Club, it is a pleasure instead to understand that why we climb is joy.

Start in a right-facing corner just uphill from Strange Science. Climb the corner, clipping two bolts, to the top of a pillar. You now have a full view of the slab. Climb up and right to the top of the slab, following a nice line of incut holds.

You can lower from a 2-bolt anchor on the face, or continue a little higher to a second 2-bolt anchor on a ledge and belay from here, if you want to bring your partner up to the top. The upper anchor doesn't have rap rings; rap from the lower anchor or walk off to the right.

But three stars for a *moderate* sport route, I thought to myself? Yeah; when you dream of high position on perfect holds and good protection, with plenty of challenge at arms reach, this one is worth going back to...more than twice.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
S. Neoh
  5.7+
S. Neoh  
  5.7+
There are one or two runout sections on the slab section of this climb. Aug 30, 2017
drdeleo  
One of the anchors had a loose nut. I hand tightened it, but it really needs to be tightened down with a wrench. I'll bring one with me in the future, as Isle of the Dead to the right on Wall of the Dead was missing an anchor hanger and nut! Jun 2, 2013
Canon
  5.7+
Canon  
  5.7+
My friend's second lead of any kind, and she did NOT have a good time with the friction and runout between bolts. She got it done though. Enjoyable 5.7 Jul 23, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
Got to second Ivan's comment, but I'd give the climb more credit for quality than others. It is good for the range of difficulty that it is in. May 14, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.6
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.6
Another good moderate climb on this slab. A full grade harder than Disinclination, so that pegs this at about 5.6. Let's be real with these ratings! Does anyone really think these two slab climbs are anywhere near 5.8? Can someone who can follow these routes at near their limit, follow, say, Cozy Hang, East of the Sun, The Owl, Cussin Crack, the Cob Rock 7s, etc., to name some Boulder Canyon 7's? I don't think so. (I'm saying following, to avoid the issue of gear). Nov 2, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
About 5 feet above the rap anchors, just over the top edge of the slab and on a wide platform, there is a second set of bolts (without rap rings) if you want to belay your second from the top more comfortably. Oct 28, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
Seeing recent discussions of the star system on the site, and climbing this route today gave me occasion to consider how I evaluate climbs.

I thought that Inclination was certainly worth doing, but I don't know that I'd recommend it to people. I thought it was about as fun as Lothlorien down the hill at the Watermark, although the views were much better on Inclination. I'd have to give it one star, maybe two.

I've generally considered the stars to mean as follows:

3 stars: I loved the climb, plan to doing it again, and rave about it.

2 stars: I enjoyed the climb, would recommend it to people, and might do it again (but wouldn't seek it out).

1 star: I thought the climb was worth doing once, but I probably wouldn't recommend it.

0 stars: I thought the climb was a waste of my time.

I'd agree that comparing a one pitch sport route in Boulder Canyon to a multi-pitch classic in Eldo doesn't make much sense. In my mind, that's because I find myself in a different frame of mind, and having different expectations, when I go to each place. When I go to Eldo, I know I need to be feeling good and confident because the gear might be tricky, and figuring out the moves, and committing to them, might take a lot of my mental energy.

But when I go to Boulder Canyon for sport climbing, I'm thinking more about feeling myself move over the rock, and I have little concern about the protection, or about taking a long fall. I might be more inclined to push my physical limits, since my self-doubt and fears are easier to keep in check there.

The two areas simply CAN'T be judged against one another. My enjoyment and satisfaction are different in each place. Oct 25, 2003
Bolts are well placed, but for a beginning leader I think this one would be quite scary. It's not bolted like a slab hand drilled on lead, but it's not sewn up by any means- expect 12-16 feet from bolt to bolt. Jul 13, 2003
RR calls this Incline Club, 5.8; see Tomb of Sorrows comment. Sep 27, 2002
Nice route that is well protected. A great beginner sport lead. Sep 10, 2002