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Routes in Middle Wall

Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bob Horan and Richard Rossiter, TR, 1996. Bolted and led by R. Rossiter, 2000
Page Views: 5,460 total, 32/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Oct 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Just right of Free Fall is this excellent, short, powerful route, characterized mainly by big moves off good jams and holds. Pumpy climbing leads to a crux deadpoint/lunge at the 4th bolt. A few delicate yet tricky slab moves keep you on your toes until the anchors. Tape may be useful on the index finger of the right hand.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Chad Elliott
Golden
  5.12a
Chad Elliott   Golden
  5.12a
I personally thought this was harder than Free Fall next to it. The onsight crux was dancing around trying to figure out best way to clip bolt after roof. Fun overall. Sep 12, 2017
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.12a
Soft 12a, but I think that's a fair grade. May feel easier if you're about 6' or taller (or have an equivalent ape index).

Really fun, gymnastic movement! 4* moves but can only give it 3* because it's so short. I found it much easier to skip the 4th bolt, as it's a fairly strenuous clip and the fall onto the 3rd bolt if you don't stick the deadpoint is totally clean (I checked, several times). Aug 16, 2015
Chrissy Crushes
Boulder, CO
Chrissy Crushes   Boulder, CO
I am 5' 5", did not need to deadpoint, and definitely did not dyno...if you use good feet and the holds on the left...technique will see you through.... Oct 14, 2013
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
Fun route. Would be a good first 12a as it is well-protected and there aren't really any brutal moves on it. Probably the only knock against it is that it is quite short, but it still packs in some good climbing. Jun 19, 2013
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
Beware of TR-ing this. My rope either got rubbed against an edge or got stuck in an undercling above the roof, but I had to cut 15 feet off. May 3, 2012
Michael Loh
Boulder, CO
 
Michael Loh   Boulder, CO
 
Deadpoints are necessary as you are off balance the whole time, but no need to dyno. Only beta I can give is to not clip the third bolt. The fall is safe unless you fall while pulling rope for the 4th bolt, which probably won't happen because the clipping hold is a huge jug. Aug 21, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
I tried to lead this route but kept falling trying to get established above the roof, which led to some nasty swings. It is very easy to set up a tr on the bolts on the slab above. Once on tr I really think the deadpoint to the jug is the onsight crux, but it really isn't that far of a move. Aug 16, 2009
John Kearney
Boulder, CO
 
John Kearney   Boulder, CO
 
definately a little easier for the people with the wingspan. i'm 6'1" and the moves weren't all that hard but a little pumpy. shorter people might have a little harder time but for me it probably went around 11c. jus remember that grade doesn't account for people's height. definately a cool route to project, not too hard to set up the top rope (draws are pretty close together, aside from the techy slab). enjoy! Jun 12, 2009
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
 
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
 
haha ignore the crimpy crystal rail above the third bolt...as well as the huge side pull to the left and slightly below the jug. now...jump! May 18, 2009
dr.natalie
Boulder, CO
 
dr.natalie   Boulder, CO
 
My first 5.12 as well. Definitely did not use the right hand finger lock, nor did I do a dyno anywhere. Could NOT reach the right hand after the sidepull, so used the left out left then a right hand facing left right above it, then mantle. Topout that way is pretty smooth-although sketch. I think there is lotsa different beta for this route. May 27, 2008
Aeon Aki

  5.12a
Aeon Aki    
  5.12a
I would consider myself average height (5'10" with a 0" ape index), and nowhere on this route did I find a move that would be even close to requiring a dyno or a deadpoint. That said, what's the beta for the lunge? Which holds are "off"? Aug 15, 2007
Second bolt needs tightening. The nut can be removed with your fingers. Might need some Lock-Tight. Sep 24, 2006
Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
 
Ben Randolph   Boulder, CO
 
This is a good route/boulder problem. In my opinion, it is a million times better than Freefall. Aug 17, 2006
Tim Fleming
Boulder, CO
  5.12-
Tim Fleming   Boulder, CO
  5.12-
My first 5.12! I pulled the crux statically by having my feet high on the wall - there's a great, little, angled band of sharp rock to the left of the 3rd bolt that makes it easier to reach the jug if you're short like me. It's a nice short route. Jun 27, 2006
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Agree that this seems easier than 12b. The "dyno" from the sidepull can be done statically, just barely, for guys of average height. It's a jug when you get there. I thought the hardest part was pulling onto the slab above. This is a fun route. Thanks, Richard, for putting it up. May 20, 2006
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.12a
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
  5.12a
I'm not quite sure if this is a 12, but I'll allow myself to be convinced to pump up my ego. The climb is short but is pretty strenuous. The fingerlock at the bottom is better than you think: use your right hand in it with the index finger at the bottom. It locks in there pretty well, or at least enough to get the left hand to the next ledge. The crux for me is matching my hands on the little ledge above the third bolt and then getting my left hand to the bomber sidepull. Then I can take my legs completely off and set them up for the dyno. With the sidepull and your right foot in the proper location, the dyno is easy and not that much of a dyno. Then you are on a big ledge with just a slightly tricky section to follow before the anchors. Some people use intermediates to avoid the dyno, but I think it makes it harder. I originally used a sequence that took me to the right and avoided the dyno, but I felt that was off-route so I abandoned that tack. Sep 26, 2005
In response to the AC: "No move harder than V3". I agree, but when you have five or so 11+ moves in a row, ratings usually increase a little higher than 11+. For example, in Indian Creek there are tons of routes that might not have a move harder than 5.10, but the route is rated 5.11 because of the sustained nature. A couple old school guys were out there today, and they thought it was 12 a/b. Jul 16, 2005
11d, no move garder than V3... unless you miss the big-ol' sidepull out left. Super fun. Jun 30, 2005
Despite its length this route kicks a.... Jun 20, 2004
FA update. Bob and I toproped this route together in 1996. We never got back to it. During the summer of 2000, I returned with Bonnie Von Grebe, placed the bolts and led the route for the first time. Oct 26, 2003