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Routes in Middle Wall

Disinclination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flashpoint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Fall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incline Club S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moomin Papa's Little Adventure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcord S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange Science S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supernatural S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tomb of Sorrows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001
Page Views: 4,718 total, 25/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


131 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start in a short right-facing corner, just uphill from Ripcord. This is the same start as for Incline Club (aka Inclination).

Climb the corner past 2 bolts to the huge slab above. Angle left and follow bolts up the slab left of Midway crack.

Rossiter calls this 5.8, but it seemed easier.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
James Hulett
Boulder, Colorado
  5.6 PG13
James Hulett   Boulder, Colorado
  5.6 PG13
Didn't feel like 5.7. Jul 4, 2012
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.6
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.6
You're kind of all over this big rock face. Good position and exposure - more fun than you would think. Sep 18, 2010
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
This climb can be lead on trad and makes for excellent practice protecting thin slabs with potential runouts (depending on how good your gear placement technique is).

It certainly increased my interest in the route. Aug 13, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.5
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.5
A fun climb with good rock and well-protected. In the scale of this rock and this canyon, I think it is an exemplary climb of quality at the low difficulty range. Would never get a 5.7 in the Flatirons, but might in a more 'modern' scale. May 14, 2007
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
 
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
 
Much more fun than Midway. Clean climbing on a well-bolted slab and you can even toprope it from the rings at the base of the pillar Rossiter describes in his BC guide. Gives you a chance to safely play around on Ripcord as well (minus the rope-stretch)! Good technical moves that force-teach you to learn slab-climbing on granite. Two stars because the start is a little contrived and the route traverses a good bit from start to finish. Rope-drag over the rock at the start can be a pain.~Wm Jun 25, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.5
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.5
On a 35 degree and snowing day, this felt easier than East Slab on the Dome, so I'm calling this 5.5. It's a good route for the grade, but no where near 5.8 as it was rated by Rossiter. Nov 2, 2003